**Free Patterns**, socks

KaBloom Sock Pattern

pdfbuttonA colorful hand painted yarn combined with a flowery stitch creates a field of flowers down the front of these socks.  Construction is toe-up and on 2 circular needles.

If you’d like to make a pair for yourself, here’s the spill:

KaBloomSm3Skill Level– Beginner/Intermediate
Finished Measurements– 7.25” around, 9″ long (sole), and 12.5” toe to cuff.
Yarn– 300 yds of fingering weight yarn (shown here in Cloud 9 found in my Etsy shop.)
Gauge– 8 stitches per inch and 11 rpi in stockinette with US size 2 needle

DIRECTIONS
Toe
Using Judy’s Magic Cast On, cast on 28 stitches (14 per needle.)
Note: If you are unfamiliar with this cast on, you can find many helpful video tutorials on youtube.
Set Up Round: Knit across both needles.
Note: The cast-on loops on needle #2 are twisted.  On the first round only, knit them through the back of the loops to untwist them.  After this round, the stitches are worked normally.
Increase Round 1: On first needle (INSTEP), k1, m1R, knit across needle until 1 st remains, m1L, k1. On second needle (SOLE), k1, m1R, knit across needle until 1 st remains, m1L, k1.
Even Round: k all sts across both needles.
Repeat previous two rounds 6 more times. 56 sts (28 per needle)
Foot
Set Up Round: On first needle (INSTEP), k across until 1 st remains, M1L, k1. On second needle (SOLE), k all sts. 57 sts (29 on first needle, 28 on second needle.)
Pattern Round: On first needle (INSTEP), work Flower Stitch. On second needle (SOLE), k all sts.
Repeat Pattern Round a total of 38 times. Piece will measure about 4.75 inches from cast on.

KaBloomSm2Gusset
Increase Round: On first needle, work all sts in established pattern.  On second needle, k1, m1R, knit across needle
until 1 st remains, m1L, k1.
Even Round: On first needle, work all sts in established pattern. On second needle, k all sts.
Repeat these two rounds a total of 14 times. 85 sts (29 on first needle, 56 on second needle)

Heel Cup
Note: The heel cup will only be worked on the second needle.
Set Up: K across first needle (INSTEP), maintaining established pattern. On second needle (SOLE), k14, pm, k27, slip 1, bring yarn to right side to wrap stich, pm on left needle, slip st back to left needle. Turn work.
WS: Bring yarn to front of work, p to 1 st before marker, sl1, bring yarn to back of work to wrap st, slip st back to left needle.  Turn work.
RS: Bring yarn to back of work, k to 2 sts before previously wrapped st, slip 1, bring yarn to front of work, slip st back to left needle. Turn work.
WS: Bring yarn to front of work, p to 2 sts before previously wrapped st, slip 1, bring yarn to back of work, slip st back to left
needle. Turn work.
Repeat last two rows until only 4 sts remain between wrapped sts, ending having completed a RS row. Turn work.

KaBloomSm4Heel Flap
WS: purl across, lifting wraps and purling them together with their sts as you come to them until 1 st before marker. Sl1, remove marker, slip sts back to left needle and p2tog.  Turn work.
RS: Sl1, k across, lifting the wraps and knitting them together with their sts until 1 st before marker, sl1, remove marker, move st back to left needle, lift wrap and knit together with its st and the next st. Turn work.
WS: Sl1, p across until 1 st before gap, p2tog. Turn work.
RS: Sl1, [k1, sl1] repeating until 2 st before gap, k1, k2tog. Turn work.
Repeat these 2 rows until you have used up all of the gusset stitches and 28 stitches remain on the second needle.
You will now resume knitting in the round across both needles.

Leg
Note: To close any gaps between heel and instep, pick up a st in the gap where the instep sts meet the heel flap and knit together with the first st on the next needle.
Even Round: Work across first needle in established pattern.  K all sts on second needle.
Repeat Even Round a total of 40 times or until sock is about 1” less than desired height.

Cuff
Set Up Round: On first needle, *k2, p2 *repeat until 2 sts remain, p2tog. On second needle, *k2, p2 *repeat to end of needle.
Ribbing Round: *k2, p2 *repeat until end of round.
Repeat Ribbing Round 9 times total.
Bind off with preferred stretchy bind off method. Weave in ends.

KaBloomSm5Flower Stitch
Round 1: K all sts
Round 2: *Make Flower, k1 *repeat until 2 sts remain on needle, k2.
Round 3: K all sts
Round 4: K2, *Make Flower, K1 *repeat until end of needle, ending with Make Flower.
Make Flower: K3tog, leave sts on left needle, YO, K3tog into the same 3 sts, drop from left needle.

ABBREVIATIONS
k – knit
p – purl
sl1- Slip one stitch purlwise
p2tog- Purl 2 stitches together
k2tog- Knit 2 stitch together
k3tog – Knit 3 stitches together
YO – Yarn over
st(s) – Stitch(es)

**Free Patterns**

Scrappy Cowl – Stash Busting Pattern

DoubleCowl2pdfbuttonWhat started out as 5 mismatched leftover balls of hand painted yarn turned into my favorite neck warmer!  The color changes combined with the slipped stitches make the colors sing.  It is totally worth weaving in the ends to get the color variations.

This did require a good wet blocking to discourage curling and it still wants to curl.  If you are interested in making one for yourself, here’s the spill:

Skill Level– Beginner
Finished Measurements– 43″ around and 5.75″ tall
Yarn– 250 yds of worsted weight leftovers  (shown here using 5 different leftover colorways from my hand painted Felicity yarn- found in my Etsy shop.)
Gauge– 4.5 stitches per inch and 6.25 rpi in stockinette with size 7 needle
Skills Required– Knitting in the round, knit, purl, slipped stitches.

Directions
CO 200 sts. Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker at BOR.

While following the directions, change between yarn colors as often as you’d like.  I changed yarns every 1.5- 2.5 rounds.

Edging: Work in garter stitch for 5 rounds (knit one round, purl one round, knit one round, purl one round, knit one round).
Pattern:  Work Dimple stitch pattern over the next 46 rounds.
Edging: Work in garter stitch for 5 rounds (knit one round, purl one round, knit one round, purl one round, knit one round).

Bind off all stitches in purl.  Weave in ends.  Wet block.

DoubleCowl3Dimple Stitch:
Rounds 1 & 2: *k1, sl1; rep from * to end of round
Round 3 & 4: k
Round 5 & 6: *sl1, k1; rep from * to end of round
Round 7 & 8: kDoubleCowlDoubleCowl4DoubleCowl5

**Free Patterns**

Make an Interchangeable Needle Case in 10 Minutes for $10.

VeraThe project I’m presenting originates from useitupwearitout.blogspot.com.  It was suggested to me by Chrisknits.wordpress.com.  It’s ridiculously easy and so clever.  Many thanks to Shearling, the woman behind the idea and of course Chris for sharing the idea!  🙂

There are these beautiful paperback book covers by Vera Bradley that are sold at bookstores as well as on online auction sites.  They are quilted with batting so there is a bit of heft to them.  Using these as a starting point saves so much time and effort.  In less than 10 minutes they can become interchangeable needle cases!

I purchased mine online for $8 plus shipping.  Take a look at the inside, just waiting to be turned into pockets!Vera2First things first, I needed a closure so I attached magnetic closures.  Others have sewn a button and a loop to the outside instead.

Vera4Next, I sewed straight lines to turn the large pockets into many smaller pockets.

Vera5Then I put all my needles and things in the pockets.  So simple, fast, and inexpensive!  It took more time to drag out the sewing machine than it did to attach the closures and sew a few straight lines.

Vera9While this small case will not hold all of my knitting accessories, it works really well for my interchangeable needles.  I even put a few stitch markers and a tapestry needle in a small plastic bag that I tucked into a larger pocket.  Perfect for slipping into my knitting bag and keeping my needles organized.  Yay!

Thanks Chris for the suggestion!!!  I’m super in love with this thing.  I highly recommend making one for yourself.  Here are more glamor shots:

Vera7 Vera9 Vera8

**Free Patterns**, sweater

Conspiracy Sweater- Free Pattern

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illuminatiDoneAn all-seeing eyeball floats above golden bricks and is all dressed up with a bow-tie!  Whether or not you are familiar with the character of Bill Cipher from Gravity Falls, this sweater is an eye-catcher.  🙂  Lots of ease and full sleeve make this oversized sweater a very comfortable fit.  This pullover is knit in the round from the bottom up until the intarsia panel.  After the shoulders are seamed together, stitches are picked up around the armhole and a sleeve is knit in place down to the cuffs.

Shown in size XL with 4 inches of positive ease.

Skill Level– Intermediate
Sizes– sm (med, lg, xl, 2x, 3x)
Finished Measurements (Chest) in inches– 35.5 (40, 44, 48, 53, 56)
Yarn– Knit Picks Brava Worsted (or other worsted weight yarn). Approximately 880 (1020, 1200, 1310, 1500, 1610) yds of MC (Custard) yarn, 150-200 yds of SC (Caution) yarn, 220 yds of Black yarn, 155 yds of White yarn.
Gauge– 4.5 stitches per inch and 6.25 rpi in stockinette with size 7 needle
Skills Required– Knitting in the round, intarsia, crochet chain, seaming.

conspiracysweaterdiagramDirections
CO 160 (180, 200, 216, 240, 256) sts. Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker at BOR.
Ribbing: K 16 round in 2×2 ribbing. Note: this ribbing is set up by *k2, p2 * repeat to the end of the round. On all subsequent
rounds, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches.
Bricks
The bricks are made by purling where the vertical brick lines belong. During the finishing of the sweater, you will come back
to the bricks and crochet in the vertical brick lines over the purled stitches with your SC yarn.
Brick Line Round: With SC, k all sts.
Even Round: With MC, k all sts.
First Brick Round: With MC [k15 (17, 19, 17, 15, 15), p1]* *repeat to EOR.
Repeat First Brick Round a total of 7 times.
Brick Line Round: With SC, [k15 (17, 19, 17, 15, 15), p1]* *repeat to EOR.
Even Round: With MC, k all sts.
Second Brick Round: With MC k8 (9, 10, 9, 8, 8), p1, [k15 (17, 19, 17, 15, 15), p1]* *repeat until 7 (8, 9, 8, 7, 7) sts remain, k to EOR.
Repeat Second Brick Round a total of 7 times.
Brick Line Round: With SC, k8 (9, 10, 9, 8, 8), p1, [k15 (17, 19, 17, 15, 15), p1]* *repeat until 7 (8, 9, 8, 7, 7) sts remain, k to EOR.
Even Round: With MC, k all sts.
Third Brick Round: With MC [k15 (17, 19, 17, 15, 15), p1]* *repeat to EOR.
Repeat Third Brick Round a total of 7 times.
Brick Line Round: With SC, [k15 (17, 19, 17, 15, 15), p1]* *repeat to EOR.
Even Round: With MC, k all sts.
With MC, k80 (90, 100, 108, 120, 128), place marker for halfway point, k to EOR.
With MC, k9 (14, 15, 14, 15, 15) rounds.
cipherIntarsia
With MC, k24 (29, 34, 38, 44, 48), place chart marker, work Chart A over next 31 sts, place chart marker, k23 (28, 33, 37, 42, 47), k2tog, sm, k to EOR, CO 1 st. Turn work.
You will now be working back and forth for the rest of the sweater body. The cast on sts will be consumed and hidden in the side seam of the sweater during finishing.
Set Up Row (WS): P until you reach a chart marker, sm, work Chart A over next 31 sts, sm, work to EOR, CO 1 st. Turn work.
Even Row (RS): K until first chart marker, sm, work Chart A over next 31 sts, sm, k until EOR. Turn work
Even Row (WS): P until you reach a chart marker, sm, work Chart A over next 31 sts, sm, work to EOR. Turn work.
Repeat these 2 rows a total of 22 times. Work one more Even Row.

Underarm Shaping
Bind Off Row (WS): BO 6 (8, 10, 11, 14, 15) sts, p until 5 (7, 9, 10, 13, 14) sts berfore side marker, BO next 10 (14, 18, 20, 26, 28) sts and remove side marker when it is reached, p until chart marker, sm, work Chart A over next 31 sts, sm, p until EOR.
You will now be working only the front half of the sweater.
Bind Off Row (RS): BO 6 (8, 10, 11, 14, 15) sts, k2tog, k until chart marker, sm, work Chart A over next 31 sts, sm, k until 3 sts remain, ssk, k1. Turn work. 68 (74, 80, 86, 92, 98) sts.
During underam shaping you will reach the last row of Chart A. After the you work the last row of Chart A, all sts will be worked in stockinette stitch with MC.
Even Row (WS): Work all sts in established pattern.
Decrease Row (RS): K1, k2tog, work sts in established pattern until 3 sts remain, ssk, k1.
Work these 2 rows a total of 4 (5, 5, 5, 5, 5) times.
Work one more Even Row (WS). 58 (64, 70, 76, 82, 88) sts
Size Small Only: Work in stockinette for 2 rows.

Neck Shaping
Small (Medium) Sizes: K20 (22), move next 18 (20) sts to stitch holder or waste yarn. Add a new ball of yarn and k across remaining 20 (22) sts.
Working each side separately in st st, at each neck edge BO 4 (6) sts, then BO 2 (2) sts. Then dec 1 st at neck edge every RS row 2 (3) times. 13 (13) sts per side remain.
Large (XL, 2X, 3X) Sizes: K1, k2tog, k22 (24, 27, 30), move next 20 (22, 22, 22) sts to stitch holder or waste yarn. Add a new ball of yarn and k22 (24, 27, 30), ssk, k1.
Working each side at the same time with their separate balls of yarn in st st, at each neck edge BO 5 (5, 5, 5) sts, then BO 2 (2, 2, 3) sts. Then dec 1 st at neck edge ever RS row 3 times. At the same time, decrease 1 st at armholde edge every RS row 1 (3, 6, 7) more times. 13 (13, 13, 14) sts per side remain.
All sizes: Work both sides of front in st st until piece measures 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8, 8.25) inches from underarm bind off (about 40 (44, 48, 50, 52, 56) rows from underarm bindoff) ending with a WS row.
illuminatiDone2Front Shoulder Shaping
Row 1 (RS): Still working each side separately but at the same time, k to the last 4 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to front, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to back. Turn.
Row 2 (WS): p to the last 4 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to back, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to front. Turn.
Row 3 (RS): k to the last 6 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to front, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to back. Turn.
Row 4 (WS): p to the last 6 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to back, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to front. Turn.
Row 5 (RS): k to the last 10 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to front, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to back. Turn.
Row 6 (WS): p to the last 10 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to back, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to front. Turn.
Row 7 (RS): K across, picking up wraps and knitting them together with their respective stitches.
Row 8 (WS): P across, picking up wraps and purling them together with their respective stitches.
Row 9 (RS): BO all sts.

Sweater Back
Add new yarn and begin on right side of work on back sweater sts.
Decrease Row (RS): K1, k2tog, k until 3 sts remain, ssk, k1.
Even Row (WS): P across.
Repeat these 2 rows a total of 5 (7, 9, 10, 13, 14) times. 60 (62, 64, 68, 68, 72) sts.
Work in st st until piece measures 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8, 8.25) inches from underarm bind off (about 40 (44, 48, 50, 52, 56) rows from underarm bindoff) ending with a WS row.

Back Shoulder Shaping
Row 1 (RS): K to the last 4 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to front, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to back. Turn.
Row 2 (WS): P to the last 4 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to back, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to front. Turn.
Row 3 (RS): K to the last 6 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to front, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to back. Turn.
Row 4 (WS): P to the last 6 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to back, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to front. Turn.
Row 5 (RS): K to the last 10 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to front, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to back. Turn.
Row 6 (WS): P to the last 10 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to back, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to front. Turn.
Row 7 (RS): K across, picking up wraps and knitting them together with their respective stitches.
Row 8 (WS): P across, picking up wraps and purling them together with their respective stitches.
Row 9 (RS): BO all sts.

Seaming
Sew front shoulders to back keeping arm holes aligned. Sew side seam closed.

illuminatiDone5Sleeves
Starting at center bottom of the armhole, pick up 58 (60, 72, 82, 92, 98) sts evenly around arm hole.
Place shaping markers 9 (10, 12, 13, 15, 16) sts from both sides of bottom center of the armhole. Place short row markers 9 (10, 12, 13, 15, 16) sts from both sides of top center of armhole.
Row 1 (RS): Starting at BOR at the bottom of the armhole, join to work in the round and k until second short row marker. W&t next stitch.
Row 2 (WS): P to first short row marker. W&t next stitch.
Row 3 (RS): K to wrapped st, pick up and knit wrap with respective st, w&t next st.
Row 4 (WS): P to wrapped st, pick and purl wrap with resspective st, w&t next st.
Repeat these 2 rows until you reach the shaping markers.
K across on the right side until you reach the wrapped stitch, pick up wrap and knit together with respective stitch, knit to EOR.
You will now work in st st for 66 (72, 74, 74, 74, 74) rounds while reducing 1 st at the beginning and end of a round every 15 (15, 15, 15, 12, 10) rounds 4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 6) times to reduce a total of 8 sts. On your first full round, when you reach the wrapped st, pick up wrap and knit together with st. You can remove all markers except the BOR marker.

Bricks
Sizes Small (Xl, 2x):
Brick Line Round: With SC, k1, k2tog, k until 3 sts remain in round, ssk, k1.

Sizes Medium (Large, 3x):
Brick Line round: With SC, k1, k2tog, k until EOR.

All sizes:
Even Round: With MC, k to EOR.
First Brick Round: With MC [k15 (16, 20, 17, 19, 16), p1]* *repeat to EOR.
Repeat First Brick Round a total of 7 times.
Brick Line Round: With SC, [k15 (16, 20, 17, 19, 16), p1]* *repeat to EOR.
Even Round: With MC, k to EOR.
Second Brick Round: With MC k8 (8, 10 9, 10, 8), p1, [k15 (16, 20, 17, 19, 16), p1]* *repeat until 7 (8, 10, 8, 9, 8) sts remain, k to EOR.
Repeat Second Brick Round a total of 7 times.
Brick Line Round: With SC, k8 (8, 10 9, 10, 8), p1, [k15 (16, 20, 17, 19, 16), p1]* *repeat until 7 (8, 10, 8, 9, 8) sts remain, k to EOR.
Even Round: With MC, k to EOR.
Third Brick Round: With MC [k15 (16, 20, 17, 19, 16), p1]* *repeat to EOR.
Repeat Third Brick Round a total of 7 times.
Brick Line Round: With SC, [[k15 (16, 20, 17, 19, 16), p1]* *repeat to EOR. 48 (51, 63, 72, 80, 85) sts.
Reduce Round Sizes Small & Medium: With MC, [k1, k2tog, k2tog]* *repeat to EOR. 30 (31) sts.
Reduce Round Sizes Large, XL, 2X & 3X: With MC, k2tog for one round. (33, 36, 40, 43) sts.

illsleeveWrist Ribbing
Ribbing Set Up Round: [k2, p2]* *repeat to EOR while reducing 2 (3, 1, 0, 0, 3) sts evenly around. 28 (28, 32, 36, 40, 40) sts
With MC, [k2, p2]* *repeat to EOR. Repeat this round 13 times. Bind off loosely.

Neck
With smaller needles (size 5 or 6) pick up 108 (120, 128, 136, 140, 148) sts evenly around neck. 2×2 rib for 6 rows and BO.

Finishing
With SC and a size 4 crochet hook, crochet chain up the purled stitch “ditches” at the bottom of the sweater and the bottom of the sleeves in the direction they were knit to complete the bricks.
With black yarn and crochet hook, crochet chain around the eyeball to line the eye.
With tapestry needle and black yarn, embroider the eyelashes.
Weave in all ends.

Abbreviations
BOR – Beginning of Round
CO – Cast on
EOR- End Of Row/Round
p – purl
k – knit
MC – Main Color
SC – Secondary Color
sm – slip marker
St(s) – Stitch(es)
st st – stockinette stitch

**Free Patterns**, gloves

Fabulous & Flexible Fingerless Mitts- Tipsy Glove Pattern

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Tipsy.pdftipsy

Another set of fingerless gloves has come off my needles and I love them.  My favorite part about these gloves is how strange they look just sitting on the table. They resemble trees.  I’m planning on gifting a pair on Christmas just to see the confusion on his face when he wonders what on earth I’ve knitted for him!   But once on the hand, they are quite attractive.

Click on the PDF above or read below for instructions on how to knit your own pair of hand trees, otherwise known at Tipsy- fingerless gloves.  There are 2 versions (stockinette and ribbed) and 3 different sizes.

Here’s the spill:

Skill Level- Beginner/Intermediate
3 sizes- Small, Medium, Large (fits up to 7”, 8”, 9” hand)
Finished Measurements in inches– 3.25 (3.75, 4) inches wide by 8.25 (8.5, 8.75) inches tall.   For ribbed version, add 1 inch to total length.
Yarn- Any worsted weight wool that can knit up into gauge.
Gauge- 5.5 stitches per inch in stockinette on 2 size-5 circular needles
Other Materials- tapestry needle to weave in ends

tipsy2Directions are included for a shorter stockinette version and a longer ribbed version.

Directions

Using circular needle CO 36 (40, 44) stitches. Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Stockinette Version:
Ribbing: Knit in rib (k1, p1) for 10 rounds.
Wrist: Knit 17 rounds.

Ribbed Version:
Wrist: Knit in rib (k2, p2) for 34 rounds.

Thumb Gusset
Stockinette Version:
Right Hand-
Set Up Round: k1, pm, k1, pm, knit to end of round
Increase Round: k1, sm, m1R, k until stitch marker, m1L, sm, knit to end of round.
Even Round: Knit all stitches
Repeat the last 2 rounds a total of 6 (6, 7) times. There will be 13 (13, 15) stitches between the stitch markers. K1, rm, move next 13 (13, 15) stitches to waste yarn, rm, cast on 1 st, knit to end of round.

Left Hand-
Set Up Round: knit until 2 sts remain in round, pm, k1, pm, k1.
Increase Round: knit until stitch marker, sm, m1R, k until stitch marker, m1L, sm, k1.
Even Round: Knit all stitches
Repeat the last 2 rounds a total of 6 (6, 7) times. There will be 13 (13, 15) stitches between the stitch markers. Knit until marker, rm, move next 13 (13, 15) stitches to waste yarn, rm, cast on 1 st, k1.

Ribbed Version:
Right Hand-
Set Up Round: k1, pm, k1, pm, knit in established rib pattern to end of round
Increase Round: k1, sm, m1R, k until stitch marker, m1L, sm, knit in established rib pattern to end of round.
Even Round: Knit all stitches in established pattern (knit the knit sts, purl the purl sts.)
Repeat the last 2 rounds a total of 6 (6, 7) times. There will be 13 (13, 15) stitches between the stitch markers. K1, rm, move next 13 (13, 15) stitches to waste yarn, rm, cast on 1 st, knit in established rib pattern to end of round.

Left Hand-
Set Up Round: knit in established rib pattern until 2 sts remain in round, pm, k1, pm, p1.
Increase Round: knit in established rib pattern until stitch marker, sm, m1R, k until stitch marker, m1L, sm, p1.
Even Round: Knit all stitches in established pattern (knit the knit sts, purl the purl sts.)
Repeat the last 2 rounds a total of 6 (6, 7) times. There will be 13 (13, 15) stitches between the stitch markers. Knit in established rib pattern to stitch marker, rm, move next 13 (13, 15) stitches to waste yarn, rm, cast on 1 st, p1.

Palmtipsy3
Stockinette Version:
Knit 8 (10, 12) rounds.

Ribbed Version:
Knit in rib (K2, P2) for 7 (9, 11) rounds. Purl 1 round.

Note: Directions for both Stockinette and Ribbed Versions are the same from this point. It is helpful to envision the glove as intended for your right hand and the stitches on the palm-side of the hand are for the Front Needle (FN) and the stitches on the back-of-the-hand are for the Back Needle (BN).

Pinkie Finger
Knit all sts on front needle (FN) and k5 (5, 6) from back needle (BN), slip next 26 (30, 32) sts to waste yarn- 13 (15, 16) from BN and 13 (15,16) from FN, CO 3 sts across gap. Knit 5 (6, 7) rounds. Bind off. Break yarn.

Lengthen Hand
Pick up all sts from waste yarn. (26 (30, 32) total sts, 13 (15, 16) sts per needle.) Beginning with BN and new yarn, knit across both needles, pick up and knit 3 sts from the base of pinkie finger (the previous cast on sts over gap.) Knit 1 more round.

Note: There will likely be holes beside the picked up stitches on all fingers. These holes can be closed during finishing by using the yarn tail to sew them closed when weaving in ends. Alternatively, you can close the holes by picking up a stitch from the row below in the hole and knitting it together with a stitch beside the hole.

Ring Finger
On BN with working yarn, k4 (4, 5), move next 18 (22, 22) sts to waste yarn (9 (11, 11) from each needle), CO 3 sts, k7 (7, 8) remaining sts on FN. 14 (14, 16) sts total, 7 (7, 8) per needle. Knit 5 (6, 7) rounds. Bind off. Break yarn.

Middle Finger
From waste yarn, pick up first 4 (5, 5) sts and last 4 (5, 5) sts evenly on needles. Beginning with BN and new yarn, k4 (5, 5), CO 3, k4 (5, 5), pick up and knit 3 sts from Ring Finger (the previous cast on sts over gap.) 14 (16, 16) sts total, 7 (8, 8) per needle. Knit 5 (6, 7) rounds. Bind off. Break yarn.

tipsy4Index Finger
Pick up the 10 (12, 12) remaining sts from waste yarn evenly on needles. Beginning with BN and new yarn, knit across both needles, pick up and knit 3 sts from the base of middle finger (the previous cast on sts over gap.) 13 (13, 15) sts total, 5 (6, 6) on BN and 8 (9, 9) on FN. Knit 5 (6, 7) rounds. Bind off. Break yarn.

Thumb
Pick up the thumb sts from waste yarn evenly on needles. (13 (13, 15) sts.) With new yarn, knit across both needles, pick up and knit 1 st (the previous cast on st over gap.) Knit 3 (4, 5) rounds. Bind off.

Finishing
Weave in all ends and close any holes between fingers.

Abbreviations
Sm – slip marker from left needle to right needle
Pm – put marker on your right needle
Rm- remove marker from needle
K- knit
P- purl
CO- cast on
FN – front needle
BN – back needle
St(s)- stitch(es)

**Free Patterns**

“I don’t know what happened to your” T-shirt Rug Pattern

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I Don’t Know What Happened.pdf

For a video tutorial on how to turn your loved ones’ ugly t-shirts into yarn, click here.

After starting and ripping out this rug several times, I settled on a striped rectangle that radiates out from the center cast on.  The size of the rug you can make is only limited by the length of your circular needles (and the amount of yarn you have). It is worked over 2 circular needles. The rug pictured here used 2 48-inch cables with size 15 needles.

linked from indulgy.com

Judy’s Magic Cast On is used in order to have live stitches going in opposite directions.  Knitting around from needle to needle while increasing at each corner creates the flat rectangle that emanates from the center.  When you reach the end of a ball of yarn you can use this join technique to join the next ball of yarn.  Or, you can simply drop the yarn and start knitting with the next and weave in the ends when your rug is completed.

Skill Level- Beginner

Finished Measurements in inches–27 inches wide by 19 inches

Yarn- T-shirt yarn (homemade or store bought). The rug pictured used yarn from 11 adult size-large t-shirts or about 150 yds

Gauge- 1.5 stitches per inch in stockinette on 2 size-15 or larger circular needles.  Although, gauge isn’t critically important.

Needles- 2 long circular size-15 or larger needles. 48-inch cable is recommended.

Directions
Using Judy’s Magic Cast On, cast on 34 stitches (17 per needle).tshirtrug7

Even Round:  On first needle, knit all stitches.  On second needle, the cast-on loops are twisted so knit all stitches through the back loops to untwist them.  After this round the stitches are worked normally.

Set Up Round: On first needle, kf&b, pm, kf&b, knit until 2 stitches remain on needle, kf&b, pm, kf&b. On second needle, kf&b, pm, kf&b, knit until 2 stitches remain on needle, kf&b, pm, kf&b.

Even Round: knit across both needles

Increase Round: On first needle, knit until 1 stitch before marker, kf&b, sm, kf&b, knit until 1 stitch before marker, kf&b, sm, kf&b, knit to end of needle. On second needle, knit until 1 stitch before marker, kf&b, sm, kf&b, knit until 1 stitch before marker, kf&b, sm, kf&b, knit to end of needle.

Repeat these 2 rounds 11 times.

Purl Round: purl atshirtrug6cross both needles

Increase Round: On first needle, knit until 1 stitch before marker, kf&b, sm, kf&b, knit until 1 stitch before marker, kf&b, sm, kf&b, knit to end of needle. On second needle, knit until 1 stitch before marker, kf&b, sm, kf&b, knit until 1 stitch before marker, kf&b, sm, kf&b, knit to end of needle.

Repeat these 2 rounds 1 more time.

Bind off loosely, weave in ends, and block. This rug really benefits from a good wet blocking. The t-shirt yarn is really stretchy and the rug comes off the needles a bit wavy and curly.

Abbreviations

Kf&b – an increase where you knit into the front and back of the stitch.

Pm – place marker

Sm- slip markertshirtrug10

**Free Patterns**, socks

Lovely Lounger Sock Pattern

LovelyLounger2pdfbutton
LovelyLounger.pdf

After several failed attempts to knit up a chunkier, stylish sock, I finally settled on these cushy, toasty feet warmers.  These lovely socks are perfect for lounging in front of a fire on a cozy, lazy day.  They knit up quickly in the DK weight yarn.  Toe up construction on 2 circular needles.

Skill Level- Beginner/Intermediate
Materials- 120 yds of DK weight yarn or 1 hank Knit Picks’
Swish DK yarn (as shown in photo).
Gauge- 6 stitches per inch and 7.5 rows per inch in
stockinette on size 5 (3.75 mm) circular needles.

Directions:
lovelylounger3TOE
Using Judy’s Magic Cast On, cast on 24 stitches (12 per needle.) Note: If you are unfamiliar with this cast on, you can find many helpful video tutorials on youtube.
Set Up Round: Knit across both needles. Note: The cast-on loops on needle #2 are twisted. On the first round only, knit them through the back of the loops to untwist them. After this round, the stitches are worked normally.
Increase Round 1: On first needle (INSTEP), k1, m1R, knit across needle until 1 st remains, m1L, k1. On second
needle (SOLE), k1, m1R, knit across needle until 1 st remains, m1L, k1.
Even Round: k all sts across both needles.
Repeat previous two rounds 5 more times. 48 sts (24 per needle)

FOOT
Begin Chart
Right foot only: On first needle (INSTEP), k2, work Chart A over next 7
stitches, knit to the end of needle. On second needle (SOLE), knit across all
stitches.
Left foot only: On first needle (INSTEP), k15, work Chart B over next
7 stitches, k2. On second needle (SOLE), knit across all stitches.
Repeat the previous round 19 more times. Piece will measure about 4.25 inches from cast on.

Lovelylounger4GUSSET
Increase Round 1: On first needle, work all sts in established pattern. On second needle, k1, m1R, knit across needle
until 1 st remains, m1L, k1.
Even Round: k all sts in established pattern.
Repeat these two rounds 11 more times. 72 sts (24 on first needle, 48 on second needle)

HEEL CUP
Note: The heel cup will be worked on the second needle only.
Set Up: K across first needle (INSTEP), maintaining established pattern. On second needle (SOLE), k12, pm, k23, slip 1, bring yarn to right side to wrap stich, pm on left needle, slip st back to left needle. Turn work.
WS: Bring yarn to front of work, p to 1 st before marker, slip 1, bring yarn to back of work to wrap st, slip st back to left needle. Turn work.
RS: Bring yarn to back of work, k to 2 sts before previously wrapped st, slip 1, bring yarn to front of work, slip st back to left needle. Turn work.
WS: Bring yarn to front of work, p to 2 sts before previously wrapped st, slip 1, bring yarn to back of work, slip st back to left needle. Turn work.
Repeat last two rows until only 4 sts remain between wrapped sts, ending having completed a RS row. Turn work.

LovelyLoungerHEEL FLAP
WS: purl across, lifting wraps and purling them together with their sts as you come to them until 1 st before marker. Slip 1, remove marker, slip sts back to left needle and p2tog. Turn work.
RS: slip 1, k across, lifting the wraps and knitting them together with their sts until 1 st before marker, slip 1, remove marker, move st back to left needle, lift wrap and knit together with its st and the next st. Turn work.
WS: slip 1, p across until 1 st before gap, p2tog. Turn work.
RS: slip 1, [k1, slip1] repeating until 2 st before gap, k1, k2tog. Turn work.
Repeat these 2 rows until you have used up all of the gusset stitches and 24 stitches remain on the second needle.
You will now resume knitting in the round across both needles.

LEG
Note: To close any gaps between heel and instep, pick up a st in the gap where the instep sts meet the heel flap and knit together with the first st on the next needle.
Even Round: k across first needle and second needle in established pattern.
Work sts in established pattern across both needles until sock is approximately 3.25 inches (or as tall as desired), ending having completed a round with row 7 of the chart (for symmetry).

CUFF
Ribbing
Right Foot: [k1, p1] around both needles.
Left Foot: [p1, k1] round both needles.

Repeat ribbing round at least 5 more times, or until cuff is desired length.
Bind off with preferred stretchy bind off method.

Book1ABBREVIABook1TIONS
pm – place marker
sm – slip marker
rm – remove marker
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 stitches together
p2tog – purl 2 stitches together
st(s) – stitch(es)
m1R– make one right leaning stitch
m1L – make one left leaning stitch
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
YO – yarn over
1/1/1 RCO (right cross over) – slip next 2 stitches to cable needle and hold in front, k1, slip center stitch from cable needle to left needle and knit it, then knit remaining stitch from cable needle.
1/1/1 LCO (left cross over)– slip next 2 stitches to cable needle and hold behind, k1, slip center stitch from cable needle to left needle and knit it, then knit remaining stitch from cable needle.

**Free Patterns**, hat

Cutest & Simplest Hat Pattern Ever- Kit Kat Hat Pattern

KitKatHat3pdfbutton

My youngest daughter wanted a cat-eared beanie to match her beloved cat.  How could I say no?

My last few projects were knitted out of fingering-weight yarn so I was surprised at how fast this little beanie knitted up.  It was a very nice change of pace and *almost* an instant-gratification project.

This adorable hat knits up quickly and is surprisingly easy. Skills required: knit, purl, 3-needle bind off, and knitting in the round.

For those who would like to recreate this project, here’s the spill:

KitKatHat4Skill Level- Beginner

Finished Measurements in inches–

9.75 inches wide by 8.25 inches tall

Yarn- Any worsted weight wool that can knit up into gauge. Shown here in superwash Felicity yarn that can be found on Etsy.

Gauge- 4.5 stitches per inch in stockinette on size 7 circular needle or DPNs

Other Materials- tapestry needle

Directions:

Using smaller circular needle (size 5 or 6) CO 88 stitches. Place marker for beginning of the round (BOR). Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Note: If you have a larger head or would like a bigger hat circumference, you can cast on 92 stitches or 96 stitches instead, or any multiple of 4.  Or, if you would like a smaller hat for a smaller head, just subtract stitches in multiples of 4.

Rib: Knit in rib (k2, p2) until piece measures 3 inches from cast on edge. Stop at the BOR marker.

Knit Body: Switch to larger needle and knit in stockinette until the hat measures 8.25 inches or the height you desire, stopping at the BOR marker.

KitKatHatDiagramBind Off: Turn your hat inside out. With the wrong side (purl side) on the outside, bind off using 3-needle bind off. This puts the row of bind off stitches on the inside of your hat.

Using a tapestry needle, weave in all your ends.

Pin Down Ears: Turn the hat right-side out. Stitch down each ear in the middle with a small piece of yarn about 1.5 inches from the sides. Use a tapestry needle to pull the tails to the inside of the hat. Weave in ends or tie ends together and cut fairly short.

**Free Patterns**

Skeleton Key Pattern – bottom up fair isle

pdfbutton
SkeletonKey.pdf

skeletonSm3*9/11 Updated chart, updated steek and neck instructions

9/5 Updated to include instructions for binding off steek.

Even though I had gauge issues, I figured I’d still share the pattern.  Please learn from my mistakes and make a swatch, soak it, and give it time to dry!  I’m a loose knitter and you may need to go up a needle size to get gauge.

As with all my patterns, I do not have test knitters.  If you happen to find an error, please let me know and I will update ASAP.

And, remember to modify to suit your needs.  If you have fuller arms, add a few more increases as you knit your way up the arm.  If you’d like waist shaping, add it in as you knit your way up the body.  🙂

With all that said, here’s the spill if you’d like to make one of these things:

Skeleton Key

Skill Level- Intermediate/ Advanced

Finished Measurements

(Chest) in inches– 34.5 (38, 41, 44) (48, 50, 54)

Arm length (Underarm to wrist)- 17.5 (18.25, 18.25, 18.25) (18.25, 18.25, 18.25)

Body length (to underarm)- 16.5 (17, 17, 17) (17, 17, 17)

Upper Arm circumference-   11 (12, 13, 15) (15, 17, 18.5)

Shown in size 38 with 1 inch negative ease.

Yarn- Knit Picks Palette yarn in colors:

Golden Heather 1 (2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2), Sweet Potato 2 (2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2), Celadon Heather 1 (1, 1, 1) (1, 2,2) Blue 2 (2, 3, 3) (3, 3, 4), Ciel 2 (2, 2, 2,) (2. 2. 3), Mist 2 (3, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4), Wallaby 2 (2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3).

Gauge- 7 stitches per inch and 7.5 rows per inch on size 2-3 needles.

Other Materials- circular needles, size 2 or size to obtain gauge

This sweater is knit in the round from the bottom up. Sleeves are knit separately and then joined to the body at the underarm and then knit in the round the rest of the way up. There is no waist shaping.

Disclaimer: This pattern assumes you have basic understanding of color-stranded knitting and sweater construction. 

Directions:skeletonSm2

BODY

Using long circular needle, CO 242, (264, 286, 308) (330, 352, 374) sts in Blue, placing stitch marker at BOR and halfway point. Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Ribbing: Work Chart A over next 11 rows. Knit one row in Blue.

Knit Body to Underarm: Work Chart B for the next 113 (120, 120, 120) (120, 120, 120) rows

Divide for Front and Back: Work in established pattern until 4, (5, 6, 7) (7, 8, 8) sts before round marker. Bind off next 8, (10, 12, 14) (14, 16, 16) sts. Knit in pattern until 4, (5, 6, 7) (7, 8, 8) sts before halfway marker. Bind off next 8, (10, 12, 14) (14, 16, 16) sts. Knit in pattern until reaching end of round.

SLEEVE (Make Two)

Using smaller circular needle or DPNs, CO 48 (50, 52, 56) (56, 60, 64) sts, placing stitch marker at BOR. Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Ribbing: Work Chart A over next 11 rows. Knit one row in Blue.

Note: The arms are 13 rows longer than the body to underarm. In order for the charts to match up at the join, start chart 13 rows before row 1. In other words, start chart at row 65.

Knit chart for 126 (133, 133, 133) (133, 133, 133) rows at the same time increasing evenly 1 stitch before and 1 stitch after BOR marker 14 (16, 19, 24) (25, 30, 33) times along the length of the arm. (76 (82, 90, 104) (106, 120, 130) sts total.) *Make sure that the chart is centered on your sleeve*

Set Up for Join Round: On next row work in pattern until 4, (5, 6, 7) (7, 8, 8) sts before round marker. Bind off next 8, (10, 12, 14) (14, 16, 16) sts.

YOKE skeletonSm

*Note- Neck and raglan shaping are done at the same time so read ahead!

RAGLAN SHAPING

Beginning at right back sweater body, knit across in pattern until bound off stitches. Put raglan marker and join sleeve by knitting across a sleeve in pattern (keeping the sleeve bind off and sweater bind off together). Put raglan marker. Knit across front of sweater body in pattern until bound off stitches for other sleeve. Put raglan marker. Knit across other sleeve in pattern (again keeping the sleeve bind off and sweater bind off together. Place raglan/BOR marker.

Even Round: Knit one round in pattern until one stitch before BOR marker.

Decrease Round: sl 2 sts tog kwise, k1, p2sso (removing marker to do so). Place marker to the right of the decrease. Knit across in pattern until one stitch before each of the next 3 markers performing the same decrease. Knit until BOR marker.

Continue knitting one even round followed by one decrease round until 2 sts remain on each side of neck.  Work one more even round, binding off steek stitches when you get to them and continue knitting around until BOR marker.

NECK SHAPING

At the same time when the yoke is approximately 1.5 (1.75, 2, 2.5) (2.25, 2.25, 2.5) inches long, as you knit across front of work, move middle 1 (2, 1, 2) (1, 2, 1) stitch(es) to a stitch holder or scrap yarn and cast on a steek (5 – 7 stitches should be sufficient) placing markers on either side of the steek and continue working in pattern. Next time across the front of the work, knit until 3 st before the steek, ssk, k1, sm, knit across steek, sm, k1, k2 tog, then continue in pattern.

Continue decrease each side of steek every other round.

STEEKsteek2

Secure steek by crochet method or sew method. Cut steek open and turn under.

COLLAR

*Note- A double decrease is worked every other row at back raglan markers on the collar to keep it close to the body. This can be performed as sl 2 sts tog kwise, k1, p2sso, just like the raglan decreases or as k2tog, sm, ssk

Knit across back, shoulder and remaining front stitches in Blue. Pick up stitches evenly along the side of neck line and knit in Blue. Put v-neck marker. Knit center front stitch(es) from holder or waste yarn. Put v-neck marker marker. Pick up stitches evenly along other side of neck and knit in Blue. Knit remaining front stitches and shoulder stitches.

Work Chart A along all neck stitches. At the same time, double decrease every other row at back raglan markers. And, at the same time, decrease at the v-neck every row by knitting until 2 stitches before 1st v-neck marker, k2tog, sm, k1 (2,1,2) (1, 2, 1), sm, ssk.

Work all rows of Chart A then bind off in rib in Blue.

FINISHINGChartsUpDated

Weave in all ends and sew underarm seams.

ABBREVIATIONS

BO – Bind off

CO – Cast on

K2tog- Knit 2 together

M1 – make one

PM – Put marker

p2sso- pass 2 slipped stitches over

SM – Slip Marker

SSK – slip slip knit

**Free Patterns**, design, sweaters

Tullia – Free Sweater Pattern

Tullia PDFTulliaFinished2

While this sweater gave me some trouble, and whoever knits it up will most likely need to stabilize the shoulders and arm holes, I figured I’d release the pattern anyway.  I kept a chart of the numbers and was writing up the pattern as I knit it up so it was pretty much ready to go.  It’s not as rigorously edited as the other patterns, but if you want to try out a bottom-up set-in sleeve sweater, you can.

You can click the PDF link above or here’s the spill:

TULLIA

Skill Level- Intermediate.  Sweater is worked flat, sleeves are worked in the round then joined to the body at underarm.

Finished Measurements (Chest) in inches–

32 (35, 38, 41, 44, 47)

Materials- 867 (961, 1047, 1127, 1228, 1287) yds FibraNatura Heaven or other yarn that meets gauge.

Gauge- 4.25 stitches per inch and 6.15 rows per inch in pattern on size 5 -7 needles

Directions:

TulliaChartNote:  In this sweater, it is important that you can recognize how each yarn over is paired together with a k2tog or SSK in the stitch pattern to keep stitch counts even throughout the fabric.  When working a decrease in the sleeve or body that eats into the stitch pattern in a way that a yarn over is omitted, you must omit the corresponding k2tog or SSK in order to keep proper sweater shaping.  Conversely, if you work a decrease in the sleeve or body that eats into the stitch pattern in a way that a k2tog or SSK is omitted, you must omit the corresponding yarn over.  If not, you may end up with strange sweater shaping. 

BODY

The body is worked flat to the arm pitsTulliaBegs2

CO 135 (147, 161, 169, 183, 191) sts.  Work in garter stitch for 6 rows (knit across every row).

Set Up:  k 4 (3, 4, 7, 7, 4), pm, begin Chart A and work in pattern for 31 (33, 36, 37, 41, 42) sts, pm to mark center side, continue working in pattern for 69 (75, 83, 87, 93, 97) sts, pm to mark center side, continue working in pattern until 4 (3, 4, 7, 7, 4) sts remain, pm, k to end of needle.  Turn work.

Even Row (WS):  p 4 (3, 4, 7, 7, 4), sm, work pattern (slipping side center markers) until last marker, sm, p to end of needle.  Turn work.

Even Row (RS):  k 4 (3, 4, 7, 7, 4), sm, work pattern (slipping side center markers) until last marker, sm, k to end of needle.  Turn work.

Repeat these 2 rows until you have completed 4 (4.5, 4.5, 4.5, 4.5, 4.5) repeats of the pattern or 80 (90, 90, 90, 90, 90) rows from garter stitch edge.

Set Up for Join Round:  On next row work in pattern until 2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5) sts before first side center marker.  Slip next 4 (6, 6, 8, 8, 10) sts onto waste yarn.  Break yarn leaving 18-inch tail to be used to graft underarm seam.

Note:  You may add or subtract rows for length, but it will mean that when you join the arms, the arms and body will not be on the row in Chart A.  If you add or subtract rows, take note of where you are in the stitch pattern so you can continue when the arms are added.

SLEEVES
Make two.  Sleeves are worked in the round to the arm pits and have subtle bell shaping.TulliaJoin2

CO 51 (53, 57, 61, 67, 67) and join in the round, being careful not to twist.

Knit in garter stitch for 6 rounds.  (knit one round, purl one round)

Set Up Round:  k 4 (5, 7, 9, 5, 5), pm, begin Chart A and repeat pattern 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) total times across 43 (43, 43, 43, 57, 57) sts, pm, k 4 (5, 7, 9, 5, 5)

Even Round:  k to marker, sm, work in established pattern until next marker, sm, k to end of needle.

Work even round 8 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6) more times

SLEEVE SHAPING

Decrease Round: k2tog, k to marker, sm, work in established pattern until next marker, sm, k until 2 sts remain, SSK.

Work Even Round 9 (7, 7, 7, 7, 7) times.

Work one decrease round followed by 9 (7, 7, 7, 7, 7) even rounds.  Repeat these 10 (8, 8, 8, 8, 8) rounds 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) more times.  45 (45, 49, 53, 59, 20) sts.

Work even round for 29 (37, 37, 37, 37, 37) rounds.

Increase Round:  k1, m1, k to marker, sm, work in established pattern until next marker, sm, k until 1 st remains, m1, k1.

Even Round:  k to marker, sm, work in established pattern until next marker, sm, k to end of needle.

Work even round 8 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6) more times.

Work an increase round.

Work an even round 9 (7, 7, 7, 7, 7) times followed by an increase round.  Repeat these 10 (8, 8, 8, 8, 8) rounds 0 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) more times.

Work even round 10 (8, 8, 8, 8, 8) times,   51 (53, 57, 61, 67, 67) sts.  Slip next 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 8) sts onto waste yarn.  Break yarn leaving 18-inch tail to be used to graft underarm seam.   

NECK SHAPING

Neck Shaping:  At the same time you are working the sleeve and body decreases, you will be working the neck decreases as follows:

Using the Yoke Set Up Row as Row 1, start neck shaping at Row 9 (5, 5, 5, 3, 5) by working a decrease at each side of the sweater and then again every 4th row 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8) more times.  The first decrease uses the first three sts as follows:  k1, k2tog.  The second decrease uses the last three sts as follows:  SSK, k1.

YOKE
You will join the sleeves to the body and work as one piece.TulliaArmSeam2

Note:  You should be on row 1 (11, 11, 11, 11, 11) of Chart A unless you have lengthened or shortened the sleeves or body from pattern. You will begin Neck Shaping at the same time you begin shaping the sleeve.

Set Up (RS& Row 1):  With working yarn from body of the sweater, pm for sleeve seam, work sleeve sts in pattern, pm for sleeve seam, work body sts in pattern until 2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5) sts before first side center marker.  Slip next 4 (6, 6, 8, 8, 10) sts onto waste yarn, pm for sleeve seam, work sleeve sts in pattern, pm for sleeve seam, work in pattern across body until last marker, k to end of needle.  Turn work.  221 (229, 251, 259, 285, 285) sts.

ARMHOLE SHAPINGTulliaArmSeam

Decrease Row (WS):  p to marker, sm, work in pattern until 3 sts before marker, SSP tbl, k1, sm, p2tog, k in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSP tbl, sm, k1, p2tog, k in pattern until 3 sts before next marker, SSP tbl, k1, sm, p2tog, k in pattern until 2 sts before next marker, SSP tbl, sm, k1, p2tog, k in pattern until next marker, sm, k to end of needle.

Decrease Row (RS):   p to marker, sm, work in pattern until 3 sts before marker, k2tog tbl, k1, sm, SSK, k in pattern until 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, SSK, k in pattern until 3 sts before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, SSK, k in pattern until 2 sts before next marker, k2tog, sm, k1, SSK, k in pattern until next marker, sm, k to end of needle.

Repeat these 2 rows 1 (2, 3, 4, 4, 5) more times.

SLEEVE CAP SHAPING

Even Row (WS):  Work in established pattern across needle, slipping markers as you encounter them, until end of needle.  Turn work.

Decrease Row Sleeve Only (RS): p to marker, sm, work in pattern until 3 sts before marker, k2tog tbl, k1, sm, SSK, k in pattern until 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, SSK, work in pattern until 3 sts before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, SSK, k in pattern until 2 sts before next marker, k2tog, sm, k1, SSK, work in pattern until next marker, sm, k to end of needle.

Repeat these 2 rows 4 (4, 5, 4, 5, 7) more times.

Decrease Row- Sleeve Only (WS):  p to marker, sm, work in pattern until mext marker, sm, p2tog, k in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSP tbl, sm, k in pattern until next marker, sm, p2tog, k in pattern until 2 sts before next marker, SSP tbl, sm, k in pattern until next last marker, sm, k to end of needle.

Decrease Row- Sleeve Only (RS):   p to marker, sm, work in pattern until next marker, sm, SSK, k in pattern until 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k in pattern until next marker, sm, SSK, work in pattern until 2 sts before next marker, k2tog, sm, work in pattern until last marker, sm, k to end of needle.

Repeat these 2 rows 5 (4, 3, 4, 3, 1) more times.

Shoulder Cap Bind Off:  On the next row (WS),  Work across front in pattern, bind off shoulder sts, work across back in pattern, bind off shoulder sts, work across front in pattern.  Move each front and back to its own needle as they will be worked separately.

SHOULDER SHAPING

Each front and the back are worked independently before being joined with a 3 needle bindoff.  The shoulder cap is then sewn to them.

Right Front:  (Starting on RS)- Work 5 rows in pattern (remember to continue neck shaping).

(Starting on WS) – Work in pattern until 4 sts remain, w&t.  (RS)- Work in pattern back to end of needle.

(WS)- Work in pattern until 4 sts remain until last wrapped st.  w&t.  (RS)- Work in pattern to end of needle.

Repeat previous 2 rows until there less than 4 sts remain.

(WS)- P across needle, picking up wraps and knitting them together with their respective stitches.

Left Front:  (Starting on WS)- Work 5 rows in pattern (remember to continue neck shaping).

(Starting on RS) – Work in pattern until 4 sts remain, w&t.  (RS)- Work in pattern back to end of needle.

(RS)- Work in pattern until 4 sts remain until last wrapped st.  w&t.  (WS)- Work in pattern to end of needle.

Repeat previous 2 rows until there less than 4 sts remain.

(RS)- K across needle, picking up wraps and knitting them together with their respective stitches.

Back:  (Starting on RS) – Work 4 rows in pattern.

(Starting on RS) – Work in pattern until 4 sts remain, w&t.  (WS)- work in pattern until 4 sts remain, w&t.

(RS)- Work in pattern until 4 sts remain until last wrapped st, w&t.  (WS) – work in pattern until 4 sts remain until last wrapped st, w&t.

Repeat previous 2 rows until you cannot wrap any more sts without eating into the 58 (60, 62, 62, 64, 64) center shoulder sts.

(RS)- k across to end, picking up wraps and knitting them together with their respective stitches.  (WS) – p across to end, picking up wraps and purling them together with their respective stitches.

Shoulder Seam:

Using the three-needle bind off, bind off the right front with the right back shoulder sts.  Using the three-needle bind off, bind off the left front with the left back shoulder sts.

Should Cap:

Using an invisible stitch, sew the shoulder cap to the shoulder.

BUTTON BAND AND COLLAR

Pick up 3 of every 4 sts up the left front, every sts around the back neck (placing a marker to note the center back), and 3 of every 4 sts down the right front.

Working in garter stitch, k 9 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12) sts past the center back, w&t,

K back past the center back 9 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12) sts, w&t

K back, picking up the wrap and knitting together with its respective st, k1 w&t.

Repeat this row until you have reached the point where neck shaping starts on both sides.

K back, picking up the wrap and knitting together with its respective st, k until end.

K back, picking up the wrap and knitting together with its respective st, k until end.

Mark where you want your buttons and buttonholes.  K across, working button holes where and as you desire.  K across 2 more rows and then bind off loosely.

Weave in ends and block.TulliaFinished