**Free Patterns**, sweater

Conspiracy Sweater- Free Pattern

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illuminatiDoneAn all-seeing eyeball floats above golden bricks and is all dressed up with a bow-tie!  Whether or not you are familiar with the character of Bill Cipher from Gravity Falls, this sweater is an eye-catcher.  🙂  Lots of ease and full sleeve make this oversized sweater a very comfortable fit.  This pullover is knit in the round from the bottom up until the intarsia panel.  After the shoulders are seamed together, stitches are picked up around the armhole and a sleeve is knit in place down to the cuffs.

Shown in size XL with 4 inches of positive ease.

Skill Level– Intermediate
Sizes– sm (med, lg, xl, 2x, 3x)
Finished Measurements (Chest) in inches– 35.5 (40, 44, 48, 53, 56)
Yarn– Knit Picks Brava Worsted (or other worsted weight yarn). Approximately 880 (1020, 1200, 1310, 1500, 1610) yds of MC (Custard) yarn, 150-200 yds of SC (Caution) yarn, 220 yds of Black yarn, 155 yds of White yarn.
Gauge– 4.5 stitches per inch and 6.25 rpi in stockinette with size 7 needle
Skills Required– Knitting in the round, intarsia, crochet chain, seaming.

conspiracysweaterdiagramDirections
CO 160 (180, 200, 216, 240, 256) sts. Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker at BOR.
Ribbing: K 16 round in 2×2 ribbing. Note: this ribbing is set up by *k2, p2 * repeat to the end of the round. On all subsequent
rounds, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches.
Bricks
The bricks are made by purling where the vertical brick lines belong. During the finishing of the sweater, you will come back
to the bricks and crochet in the vertical brick lines over the purled stitches with your SC yarn.
Brick Line Round: With SC, k all sts.
Even Round: With MC, k all sts.
First Brick Round: With MC [k15 (17, 19, 17, 15, 15), p1]* *repeat to EOR.
Repeat First Brick Round a total of 7 times.
Brick Line Round: With SC, [k15 (17, 19, 17, 15, 15), p1]* *repeat to EOR.
Even Round: With MC, k all sts.
Second Brick Round: With MC k8 (9, 10, 9, 8, 8), p1, [k15 (17, 19, 17, 15, 15), p1]* *repeat until 7 (8, 9, 8, 7, 7) sts remain, k to EOR.
Repeat Second Brick Round a total of 7 times.
Brick Line Round: With SC, k8 (9, 10, 9, 8, 8), p1, [k15 (17, 19, 17, 15, 15), p1]* *repeat until 7 (8, 9, 8, 7, 7) sts remain, k to EOR.
Even Round: With MC, k all sts.
Third Brick Round: With MC [k15 (17, 19, 17, 15, 15), p1]* *repeat to EOR.
Repeat Third Brick Round a total of 7 times.
Brick Line Round: With SC, [k15 (17, 19, 17, 15, 15), p1]* *repeat to EOR.
Even Round: With MC, k all sts.
With MC, k80 (90, 100, 108, 120, 128), place marker for halfway point, k to EOR.
With MC, k9 (14, 15, 14, 15, 15) rounds.
cipherIntarsia
With MC, k24 (29, 34, 38, 44, 48), place chart marker, work Chart A over next 31 sts, place chart marker, k23 (28, 33, 37, 42, 47), k2tog, sm, k to EOR, CO 1 st. Turn work.
You will now be working back and forth for the rest of the sweater body. The cast on sts will be consumed and hidden in the side seam of the sweater during finishing.
Set Up Row (WS): P until you reach a chart marker, sm, work Chart A over next 31 sts, sm, work to EOR, CO 1 st. Turn work.
Even Row (RS): K until first chart marker, sm, work Chart A over next 31 sts, sm, k until EOR. Turn work
Even Row (WS): P until you reach a chart marker, sm, work Chart A over next 31 sts, sm, work to EOR. Turn work.
Repeat these 2 rows a total of 22 times. Work one more Even Row.

Underarm Shaping
Bind Off Row (WS): BO 6 (8, 10, 11, 14, 15) sts, p until 5 (7, 9, 10, 13, 14) sts berfore side marker, BO next 10 (14, 18, 20, 26, 28) sts and remove side marker when it is reached, p until chart marker, sm, work Chart A over next 31 sts, sm, p until EOR.
You will now be working only the front half of the sweater.
Bind Off Row (RS): BO 6 (8, 10, 11, 14, 15) sts, k2tog, k until chart marker, sm, work Chart A over next 31 sts, sm, k until 3 sts remain, ssk, k1. Turn work. 68 (74, 80, 86, 92, 98) sts.
During underam shaping you will reach the last row of Chart A. After the you work the last row of Chart A, all sts will be worked in stockinette stitch with MC.
Even Row (WS): Work all sts in established pattern.
Decrease Row (RS): K1, k2tog, work sts in established pattern until 3 sts remain, ssk, k1.
Work these 2 rows a total of 4 (5, 5, 5, 5, 5) times.
Work one more Even Row (WS). 58 (64, 70, 76, 82, 88) sts
Size Small Only: Work in stockinette for 2 rows.

Neck Shaping
Small (Medium) Sizes: K20 (22), move next 18 (20) sts to stitch holder or waste yarn. Add a new ball of yarn and k across remaining 20 (22) sts.
Working each side separately in st st, at each neck edge BO 4 (6) sts, then BO 2 (2) sts. Then dec 1 st at neck edge every RS row 2 (3) times. 13 (13) sts per side remain.
Large (XL, 2X, 3X) Sizes: K1, k2tog, k22 (24, 27, 30), move next 20 (22, 22, 22) sts to stitch holder or waste yarn. Add a new ball of yarn and k22 (24, 27, 30), ssk, k1.
Working each side at the same time with their separate balls of yarn in st st, at each neck edge BO 5 (5, 5, 5) sts, then BO 2 (2, 2, 3) sts. Then dec 1 st at neck edge ever RS row 3 times. At the same time, decrease 1 st at armholde edge every RS row 1 (3, 6, 7) more times. 13 (13, 13, 14) sts per side remain.
All sizes: Work both sides of front in st st until piece measures 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8, 8.25) inches from underarm bind off (about 40 (44, 48, 50, 52, 56) rows from underarm bindoff) ending with a WS row.
illuminatiDone2Front Shoulder Shaping
Row 1 (RS): Still working each side separately but at the same time, k to the last 4 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to front, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to back. Turn.
Row 2 (WS): p to the last 4 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to back, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to front. Turn.
Row 3 (RS): k to the last 6 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to front, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to back. Turn.
Row 4 (WS): p to the last 6 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to back, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to front. Turn.
Row 5 (RS): k to the last 10 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to front, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to back. Turn.
Row 6 (WS): p to the last 10 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to back, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to front. Turn.
Row 7 (RS): K across, picking up wraps and knitting them together with their respective stitches.
Row 8 (WS): P across, picking up wraps and purling them together with their respective stitches.
Row 9 (RS): BO all sts.

Sweater Back
Add new yarn and begin on right side of work on back sweater sts.
Decrease Row (RS): K1, k2tog, k until 3 sts remain, ssk, k1.
Even Row (WS): P across.
Repeat these 2 rows a total of 5 (7, 9, 10, 13, 14) times. 60 (62, 64, 68, 68, 72) sts.
Work in st st until piece measures 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8, 8.25) inches from underarm bind off (about 40 (44, 48, 50, 52, 56) rows from underarm bindoff) ending with a WS row.

Back Shoulder Shaping
Row 1 (RS): K to the last 4 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to front, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to back. Turn.
Row 2 (WS): P to the last 4 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to back, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to front. Turn.
Row 3 (RS): K to the last 6 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to front, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to back. Turn.
Row 4 (WS): P to the last 6 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to back, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to front. Turn.
Row 5 (RS): K to the last 10 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to front, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to back. Turn.
Row 6 (WS): P to the last 10 sts, slip next stitch pwise, yarn to back, return slipped stitch to left needle, yarn to front. Turn.
Row 7 (RS): K across, picking up wraps and knitting them together with their respective stitches.
Row 8 (WS): P across, picking up wraps and purling them together with their respective stitches.
Row 9 (RS): BO all sts.

Seaming
Sew front shoulders to back keeping arm holes aligned. Sew side seam closed.

illuminatiDone5Sleeves
Starting at center bottom of the armhole, pick up 58 (60, 72, 82, 92, 98) sts evenly around arm hole.
Place shaping markers 9 (10, 12, 13, 15, 16) sts from both sides of bottom center of the armhole. Place short row markers 9 (10, 12, 13, 15, 16) sts from both sides of top center of armhole.
Row 1 (RS): Starting at BOR at the bottom of the armhole, join to work in the round and k until second short row marker. W&t next stitch.
Row 2 (WS): P to first short row marker. W&t next stitch.
Row 3 (RS): K to wrapped st, pick up and knit wrap with respective st, w&t next st.
Row 4 (WS): P to wrapped st, pick and purl wrap with resspective st, w&t next st.
Repeat these 2 rows until you reach the shaping markers.
K across on the right side until you reach the wrapped stitch, pick up wrap and knit together with respective stitch, knit to EOR.
You will now work in st st for 66 (72, 74, 74, 74, 74) rounds while reducing 1 st at the beginning and end of a round every 15 (15, 15, 15, 12, 10) rounds 4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 6) times to reduce a total of 8 sts. On your first full round, when you reach the wrapped st, pick up wrap and knit together with st. You can remove all markers except the BOR marker.

Bricks
Sizes Small (Xl, 2x):
Brick Line Round: With SC, k1, k2tog, k until 3 sts remain in round, ssk, k1.

Sizes Medium (Large, 3x):
Brick Line round: With SC, k1, k2tog, k until EOR.

All sizes:
Even Round: With MC, k to EOR.
First Brick Round: With MC [k15 (16, 20, 17, 19, 16), p1]* *repeat to EOR.
Repeat First Brick Round a total of 7 times.
Brick Line Round: With SC, [k15 (16, 20, 17, 19, 16), p1]* *repeat to EOR.
Even Round: With MC, k to EOR.
Second Brick Round: With MC k8 (8, 10 9, 10, 8), p1, [k15 (16, 20, 17, 19, 16), p1]* *repeat until 7 (8, 10, 8, 9, 8) sts remain, k to EOR.
Repeat Second Brick Round a total of 7 times.
Brick Line Round: With SC, k8 (8, 10 9, 10, 8), p1, [k15 (16, 20, 17, 19, 16), p1]* *repeat until 7 (8, 10, 8, 9, 8) sts remain, k to EOR.
Even Round: With MC, k to EOR.
Third Brick Round: With MC [k15 (16, 20, 17, 19, 16), p1]* *repeat to EOR.
Repeat Third Brick Round a total of 7 times.
Brick Line Round: With SC, [[k15 (16, 20, 17, 19, 16), p1]* *repeat to EOR. 48 (51, 63, 72, 80, 85) sts.
Reduce Round Sizes Small & Medium: With MC, [k1, k2tog, k2tog]* *repeat to EOR. 30 (31) sts.
Reduce Round Sizes Large, XL, 2X & 3X: With MC, k2tog for one round. (33, 36, 40, 43) sts.

illsleeveWrist Ribbing
Ribbing Set Up Round: [k2, p2]* *repeat to EOR while reducing 2 (3, 1, 0, 0, 3) sts evenly around. 28 (28, 32, 36, 40, 40) sts
With MC, [k2, p2]* *repeat to EOR. Repeat this round 13 times. Bind off loosely.

Neck
With smaller needles (size 5 or 6) pick up 108 (120, 128, 136, 140, 148) sts evenly around neck. 2×2 rib for 6 rows and BO.

Finishing
With SC and a size 4 crochet hook, crochet chain up the purled stitch “ditches” at the bottom of the sweater and the bottom of the sleeves in the direction they were knit to complete the bricks.
With black yarn and crochet hook, crochet chain around the eyeball to line the eye.
With tapestry needle and black yarn, embroider the eyelashes.
Weave in all ends.

Abbreviations
BOR – Beginning of Round
CO – Cast on
EOR- End Of Row/Round
p – purl
k – knit
MC – Main Color
SC – Secondary Color
sm – slip marker
St(s) – Stitch(es)
st st – stockinette stitch

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Nautty Baby- Giving Thanks!

NauttyClose2A huge THANK YOU to Missy’s Crafty Mess for test knitting my latest pattern!  Her feedback was very helpful!  If you check out her blog, you can see her sweet little off-white Nautty sweater.

Usually, I post a free pattern of my latest project here on the blog.  But, if you’ve been reading, then you know I’m working towards selling my patterns.  This latest baby sweater pattern is available for sale on Ravelry.com but, until the end of the month (11/30/2014), readers can download the pattern for free!  Click to access it directly here.  You may need to have a Ravelry account.

Yarn dyeing is on my agenda for today!  I’m so excited and have some crazy color combinations planned.  My tech-able mittens are still a work-in-progress.  My hubby thinks they need to fit snug but I kinda like to have some wiggle room in my mittens for my fingers.  How do you wear your mittens?  Tight or loose?

NauttyBoy

**Free Patterns**, hat

Cutest & Simplest Hat Pattern Ever- Kit Kat Hat Pattern

KitKatHat3pdfbutton

My youngest daughter wanted a cat-eared beanie to match her beloved cat.  How could I say no?

My last few projects were knitted out of fingering-weight yarn so I was surprised at how fast this little beanie knitted up.  It was a very nice change of pace and *almost* an instant-gratification project.

This adorable hat knits up quickly and is surprisingly easy. Skills required: knit, purl, 3-needle bind off, and knitting in the round.

For those who would like to recreate this project, here’s the spill:

KitKatHat4Skill Level- Beginner

Finished Measurements in inches–

9.75 inches wide by 8.25 inches tall

Yarn- Any worsted weight wool that can knit up into gauge. Shown here in superwash Felicity yarn that can be found on Etsy.

Gauge- 4.5 stitches per inch in stockinette on size 7 circular needle or DPNs

Other Materials- tapestry needle

Directions:

Using smaller circular needle (size 5 or 6) CO 88 stitches. Place marker for beginning of the round (BOR). Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Note: If you have a larger head or would like a bigger hat circumference, you can cast on 92 stitches or 96 stitches instead, or any multiple of 4.  Or, if you would like a smaller hat for a smaller head, just subtract stitches in multiples of 4.

Rib: Knit in rib (k2, p2) until piece measures 3 inches from cast on edge. Stop at the BOR marker.

Knit Body: Switch to larger needle and knit in stockinette until the hat measures 8.25 inches or the height you desire, stopping at the BOR marker.

KitKatHatDiagramBind Off: Turn your hat inside out. With the wrong side (purl side) on the outside, bind off using 3-needle bind off. This puts the row of bind off stitches on the inside of your hat.

Using a tapestry needle, weave in all your ends.

Pin Down Ears: Turn the hat right-side out. Stitch down each ear in the middle with a small piece of yarn about 1.5 inches from the sides. Use a tapestry needle to pull the tails to the inside of the hat. Weave in ends or tie ends together and cut fairly short.

**Free Patterns**

Skeleton Key Pattern – bottom up fair isle

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SkeletonKey.pdf

skeletonSm3*9/11 Updated chart, updated steek and neck instructions

9/5 Updated to include instructions for binding off steek.

Even though I had gauge issues, I figured I’d still share the pattern.  Please learn from my mistakes and make a swatch, soak it, and give it time to dry!  I’m a loose knitter and you may need to go up a needle size to get gauge.

As with all my patterns, I do not have test knitters.  If you happen to find an error, please let me know and I will update ASAP.

And, remember to modify to suit your needs.  If you have fuller arms, add a few more increases as you knit your way up the arm.  If you’d like waist shaping, add it in as you knit your way up the body.  🙂

With all that said, here’s the spill if you’d like to make one of these things:

Skeleton Key

Skill Level- Intermediate/ Advanced

Finished Measurements

(Chest) in inches– 34.5 (38, 41, 44) (48, 50, 54)

Arm length (Underarm to wrist)- 17.5 (18.25, 18.25, 18.25) (18.25, 18.25, 18.25)

Body length (to underarm)- 16.5 (17, 17, 17) (17, 17, 17)

Upper Arm circumference-   11 (12, 13, 15) (15, 17, 18.5)

Shown in size 38 with 1 inch negative ease.

Yarn- Knit Picks Palette yarn in colors:

Golden Heather 1 (2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2), Sweet Potato 2 (2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2), Celadon Heather 1 (1, 1, 1) (1, 2,2) Blue 2 (2, 3, 3) (3, 3, 4), Ciel 2 (2, 2, 2,) (2. 2. 3), Mist 2 (3, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4), Wallaby 2 (2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3).

Gauge- 7 stitches per inch and 7.5 rows per inch on size 2-3 needles.

Other Materials- circular needles, size 2 or size to obtain gauge

This sweater is knit in the round from the bottom up. Sleeves are knit separately and then joined to the body at the underarm and then knit in the round the rest of the way up. There is no waist shaping.

Disclaimer: This pattern assumes you have basic understanding of color-stranded knitting and sweater construction. 

Directions:skeletonSm2

BODY

Using long circular needle, CO 242, (264, 286, 308) (330, 352, 374) sts in Blue, placing stitch marker at BOR and halfway point. Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Ribbing: Work Chart A over next 11 rows. Knit one row in Blue.

Knit Body to Underarm: Work Chart B for the next 113 (120, 120, 120) (120, 120, 120) rows

Divide for Front and Back: Work in established pattern until 4, (5, 6, 7) (7, 8, 8) sts before round marker. Bind off next 8, (10, 12, 14) (14, 16, 16) sts. Knit in pattern until 4, (5, 6, 7) (7, 8, 8) sts before halfway marker. Bind off next 8, (10, 12, 14) (14, 16, 16) sts. Knit in pattern until reaching end of round.

SLEEVE (Make Two)

Using smaller circular needle or DPNs, CO 48 (50, 52, 56) (56, 60, 64) sts, placing stitch marker at BOR. Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Ribbing: Work Chart A over next 11 rows. Knit one row in Blue.

Note: The arms are 13 rows longer than the body to underarm. In order for the charts to match up at the join, start chart 13 rows before row 1. In other words, start chart at row 65.

Knit chart for 126 (133, 133, 133) (133, 133, 133) rows at the same time increasing evenly 1 stitch before and 1 stitch after BOR marker 14 (16, 19, 24) (25, 30, 33) times along the length of the arm. (76 (82, 90, 104) (106, 120, 130) sts total.) *Make sure that the chart is centered on your sleeve*

Set Up for Join Round: On next row work in pattern until 4, (5, 6, 7) (7, 8, 8) sts before round marker. Bind off next 8, (10, 12, 14) (14, 16, 16) sts.

YOKE skeletonSm

*Note- Neck and raglan shaping are done at the same time so read ahead!

RAGLAN SHAPING

Beginning at right back sweater body, knit across in pattern until bound off stitches. Put raglan marker and join sleeve by knitting across a sleeve in pattern (keeping the sleeve bind off and sweater bind off together). Put raglan marker. Knit across front of sweater body in pattern until bound off stitches for other sleeve. Put raglan marker. Knit across other sleeve in pattern (again keeping the sleeve bind off and sweater bind off together. Place raglan/BOR marker.

Even Round: Knit one round in pattern until one stitch before BOR marker.

Decrease Round: sl 2 sts tog kwise, k1, p2sso (removing marker to do so). Place marker to the right of the decrease. Knit across in pattern until one stitch before each of the next 3 markers performing the same decrease. Knit until BOR marker.

Continue knitting one even round followed by one decrease round until 2 sts remain on each side of neck.  Work one more even round, binding off steek stitches when you get to them and continue knitting around until BOR marker.

NECK SHAPING

At the same time when the yoke is approximately 1.5 (1.75, 2, 2.5) (2.25, 2.25, 2.5) inches long, as you knit across front of work, move middle 1 (2, 1, 2) (1, 2, 1) stitch(es) to a stitch holder or scrap yarn and cast on a steek (5 – 7 stitches should be sufficient) placing markers on either side of the steek and continue working in pattern. Next time across the front of the work, knit until 3 st before the steek, ssk, k1, sm, knit across steek, sm, k1, k2 tog, then continue in pattern.

Continue decrease each side of steek every other round.

STEEKsteek2

Secure steek by crochet method or sew method. Cut steek open and turn under.

COLLAR

*Note- A double decrease is worked every other row at back raglan markers on the collar to keep it close to the body. This can be performed as sl 2 sts tog kwise, k1, p2sso, just like the raglan decreases or as k2tog, sm, ssk

Knit across back, shoulder and remaining front stitches in Blue. Pick up stitches evenly along the side of neck line and knit in Blue. Put v-neck marker. Knit center front stitch(es) from holder or waste yarn. Put v-neck marker marker. Pick up stitches evenly along other side of neck and knit in Blue. Knit remaining front stitches and shoulder stitches.

Work Chart A along all neck stitches. At the same time, double decrease every other row at back raglan markers. And, at the same time, decrease at the v-neck every row by knitting until 2 stitches before 1st v-neck marker, k2tog, sm, k1 (2,1,2) (1, 2, 1), sm, ssk.

Work all rows of Chart A then bind off in rib in Blue.

FINISHINGChartsUpDated

Weave in all ends and sew underarm seams.

ABBREVIATIONS

BO – Bind off

CO – Cast on

K2tog- Knit 2 together

M1 – make one

PM – Put marker

p2sso- pass 2 slipped stitches over

SM – Slip Marker

SSK – slip slip knit

**Free Patterns**, socks

Twisted Sock Pattern

TwistedSockspdfbutton
TwistedSocks.pdf

I conquered twisted stitches and a bit of my stash with these vivid crazy socks.  Between the color stranding and the twisted stitches, there’s not a whole lot of stretch to them which means you have to be careful to keep your floats loose in the back of your work.

If you are planning on knitting these up from the pattern and have large feet, I would recommend going with a bigger needle and slightly fewer stitches per inch.  If you have small feet, I would recommend going down a needle size and knitting these up slightly more stitches per inch.  At the given gauge, they fit my feet which are a 7.5 women (US).

So, to recreate, you can click Twisted for the PDF.  Or here’s the spill:

Skill Level- Intermediate

Materials-  250 yds of fingering weight sock yarn in two colors (500 yds total.)   Shown here in Knit Picks Stroll Tonal – Springtime and Summerblooms

Gauge- 7 stitches per inch in stockinette on size 2 US circular needles

Needles- 2 circular needles, size 2 or size to obtain gauge

Finished size- 8 inches around and 8.75 inches long

Note- You will need to make sure that you keep the floats loose.  Between the color stranding and the twisted stitches, there’s not a lot of stretch.  It is important that the floats are not tight and your fabric isn’t puckered or you may not be able to get your foot into these.

Chart A
Chart A

TOE
Using Judy’s Magic Cast On, CO 28 sts (14 per needle.)

Knit all sts across both needles.  Note:  The cast-on loops on needle #2 are twisted.  On the first round only, knit them through the back of the loops to untwist them.  After this round, the stitches will all be worked normally.

Increase Round: On first needle, k1, m1R, k until one st remains, m1L, k1.  Repeat for second needle.

Even Round:  k all sts across both needles

Repeat these 2 rounds 6 more times.  56 sts total, 28 sts per needle.

FOOT
On first needle (INSTEP), work Chart A across.  On second needle (SOLE), [k1 in MC, k1 in CC] repeat 6 more times, k1 in CC, [k1 in MC, k1 in CC] repeat 5 more times, k1 in MC.

Repeat this round until piece measures 3 inches, ending work having finished side2.

Note:  I’ve put together a photo stitch tutorial here, if you need help understand how to perform the twisted stitches.

GUSSETTwistedGusset
Increase Round:  On first needle (INSTEP), work in pattern as established.  On second needle (SOLE), k1 in MC, m1R in MC, knit each stitch in color as it appears until one stitch remains, m1L in MC, k1 in MC.

Even Round: On first needle (INSTEP), work in pattern as established.  On second needle (SOLE), k ever y st in color as it appears.

Repeat these two rounds 13 more times, alternating the m1 color between MC and CC to maintain striping.  84 sts (28 sts on needle one, 56 sts on needle two)

HEEL CUP
Set Up:  Knit in pattern across needle one (INSTEP).   On second needle (SOLE), k14, pm, k27, slip 1, bring yarn to right side to wrap stich, pm on left needle, slip st back to left needle.  Turn work.

The heel cup will only be worked on the second needle.

WS:  Bring yarn to front of work, p to 2 sts before marker, slip, bring yarn to back of work to wrap st, slip st back to left needle.  Turn work.

RS:   Bring yarn to back of work, k to 2 sts before previously wrapped st, slip 1, bring yarn to front of work, slip st back to left needle.  Turn work.

WS:  Bring yarn to front of work, p to 2 sts before previously wrapped st, slip 1, bring yarn to back of work, slip st back to left needle.  Turn work.TwistedStitch

Repeat last two rows until only 3 sts remain between wrapped sts, ending having completed a RS row.  Turn work.

WS:  purl across, lifting wraps and purling them together with their sts as you come to them until 1 st before marker.  Slip 1, rm, slip sts back to left needle and p2tog.  Turn work.

RS: slip 1, k across, lifting the wraps and knitting them together with their sts until 1 st before marker, slip 1, rm, move st back to left needle, lift wrap and knit together with its st and the next st.  Turn work.

HEEL FLAP
WS:  slip 1, p across until 1 st before gap, p2tog.  Turn.

RS:  slip 1, [k1,slip1] repeating until 1 st before gap, k2tog.  Turn.

Repeat these 2 rows until only 1 st remains on either side of the gap, ending having worked a RS row.

WS:  slip 1, p across until 1 st before gap, p2tog.  Turn

RS:  slip 1, [k2 with CC, k2 with MC] repeating until 1 st before gap, k2tog with MC.

LEGS
To close any gaps between heel and instep, pick up a st in the gap where the instep sts meet the heel flap and knit together with the first st on needle one (INSTEP) in pattern color.  Continue k across needle one in pattern.  On second needle (BACK OF LEG), k1 with MC, [p2 with CC, k2 with MC] repeat until one st remains, k1 with MC.

Work Even:  work across first needle continuing established pattern, work second needle as sts present themselves, knitting each knit stitch in MC and purling each purl stitch in CC.

Repeat last round until leg measures 3.5 inches or desired length.

CUFF
Set Up:  Break CC yarn.  K all sts across both needles in MC.

Ribbing:  [k1, p1] across both needles.

Repeat last round 5 times or until cuff is desired length.

Bind off with preferred bind off method.  I highly recommend trying out this stretchy magic bind off.  🙂  Happy knitting!

**Free Patterns**, cables, sweaters

Gorgeous Scoop-Necked Cabled Sweater – Olwen Sweater Pattern

olwen3pdfbutton
OlwenUpdated.pdf

It’s finished!!  And, I love it!  The yarn is soft and warm, the cables are classic and beautiful, and the darned thing fits the way it should!

I’ve given it a Welsh name -Olwen- just for the heck of it and I’ve graded it across 6 different sizes so hopefully something will work for you.  It’s my first graded sweater pattern.  Pretty exciting!  🙂

For those who would like to recreate this, click the pdf link above or here’s the spill:olwen

Skill Level- Intermediate

Finished Measurements (Chest) in inches– 32 (35, 38, 41, 44, 47) Shown in size 41 with no ease.

Yarn- Knit Picks City Tweed HW (or other worsted weight yarn)  890 ( 981, 1112, 1244, 1365, 1474) yds or 6 (6, 7, 8, 9, 9) balls.

Gauge- 3.8 stitches per inch in moss stitch with larger needle.  (size 8-10 US needle)

Directions:

BODY

Using smaller circular needle, CO 148 (160, 168, 176, 188, 196) sts.  Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Set Up Round:  [k1,p1] repeat 36 (39,  41, 43, 46, 48) more times, pm,  [k1,p1] repeat 36 (39,  41, 43, 46, 48) more times, place round marker.

Ribbing:  Continue in 1×1 ribbing by working sts as they appear for 13 rows.

Begin Pattern:  Switch to larger needle.  Work Chart A for 10 (13, 15, 17, 20, 22) sts, work Chart B for 54 sts, work Chart A for 10 (13, 15, 17, 20, 22) sts, sm, Work Chart A for 10 (13, 15, 17, 20, 22) sts, work Chart B for 54 sts, work Chart A for 10 (13, 15, 17, 20, 22) sts, smOlwenCharts.

Continue Pattern: Continue working pattern charts as established for 61 (63, 65, 65, 67, 67) more rows.

Set Up for Sleeve Join Round:  Work in established pattern until 2 (3, 3, 4, 5, 6) sts before round marker.  Slip next 4 (6, 6, 8, 10, 12) sts onto waste yarn.  Do not break yarn.

SLEEVE (Make Two)

Using smaller circular needle or DPNs, CO 32 (32, 34, 36, 38, 38) sts.  Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Set Up Round:  [k1, p1] repeat 15 (15, 16, 17, 18, 18) more times, place round marker

Ribbing:  Continue in 1×1 ribbing by working sts as they appear for 13 rows.

Pattern Set Up Round:  Switch to larger needle.  Work sts as they appear increasing 4 sts evenly around.  36 (36, 38, 40, 42, 42) sts.

Begin Pattern:  k1, work Chart A for 5 (5, 6, 7, 8, 8) sts, work Chart C for 24 sts, work Chart A for 5 (5, 6, 7, 8, 8) sts, k1, sm

Increase Round:  k1, m1, work pattern as established, m1, k1, sm

Continue working pattern as established while repeating the Increase Round every 4 rows 0 (0, 0, 1, 4, 10) times, then every 6 rows 0 (5, 9, 10, 8, 4) times, then every 8 rows 7 (4, 1, 0, 0, 0) times.  52 (56, 60, 64, 68, 72) sts.  Note: the new stitches made in the increase rounds should be worked in Moss Stitch (Chart A) in subsequent rows.

Work even until arm measures 17.25 (18, 18, 18.25, 18.25, 18.25) inches from cast on ending with an odd numbered row on Chart C.

Set Up for Join Round:  On next row (even numbered) from Chart C, work in pattern until 2 (3, 3, 4, 5, 6) sts before round marker.  Slip next 4 (6, 6, 8, 10, 12) sts onto waste yarn.  Break yarn leaving 18-inch tail to be used to graft underarm seam.  52 (56, 60, 64, 68, 72) sts.

YOKE olwen2

With working yarn from body of the sweater, pm for raglan, work sleeve sts in pattern, pm for raglan, work body sts in pattern until 2 (3, 3, 4, 5, 6) sts before side marker, slip next 4 (6, 6, 8, 10, 12) sts onto waste yarn, pm for raglan, work sleeve sts in pattern, pm for raglan, work in pattern across body until 2 stitches before raglan marker.  236 (244, 264, 276, 288, 296) sts.

Decrease Round:  SSK, sm, k2tog, work sleeve sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work body sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work sleeve sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work body sts in pattern to raglan marker.

Even Round:  work in pattern around to the last 2 sts.

Repeat these two rounds 9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11) more times.

Work one decrease round.

NECK SHAPING

Neck Bind Off:  work sts in pattern across sleeve, work sts in pattern across back, work sts in pattern across sleeve, work 15 (15, 18, 18, 20, 21) sts in pattern, bind off 16 (18, 18, 20, 20, 20) sts for neck, k1, SSK, work 10 (10, 13, 13, 15, 16) sts in pattern (2 sts before raglan marker). 123 (129, 149, 151, 163, 163) sts.

Decrease Round:  SSK, sm, k2tog, work sleeve sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work body sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work sleeve sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work body sts until 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1.  Turn work

Even Round (WS): Work sts as they appear all the way around.  Turn work.olwen4

Decrease Round (RS): k1, SSK, work in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work sleeve sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work body sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work sleeve sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work body sts until 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1.  Turn work.

Repeat these two rounds 3 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more times.  74 (90, 100, 102, 104, 104) sts.

TO THE SHOULDER

Even Round (WS): Work sts as they appear all the way around.  Turn work.

Decrease Round (RS): Work in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work sleeve sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work body sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work sleeve sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work body sts in pattern.  Turn work.

Repeat these two rounds until 1 st remains on each side of front.  42 (42, 44, 46, 48, 48)sts.

Neck Ribbing:  Pick up an additional 46 (52, 56, 58, 62, 62) sts down around the front neck line.  Switch to smaller needles.  1×1 rib for 5 rows.  Bind off loosely.

Under Arm Seam:  Use Kitchener stitch and yarn tail from sleeve to graft seam closed.  Use tail to then close up any holes.

Weave in all ends.olwen5

**Free Patterns**

Lofty Scarf and Stole

2013-01-02 007pdfbutton
LoftyScarf.pdf

Third time is a charm… the yarn and pattern have come together to form something elegant and plush.  The stitch pattern is reversible so it works out beautifully for a heavenly scarf.  The yarn is so lofty and squishy, it’s like wearing a cloud.  I’m in love and it was worth all of the trial and error.  I even wrap this around my shoulders in the cold morning to take the dog out for his morning romp.

My daughter was a good sport and modeled for me to show off the size and drape.  And for those who would like to replicate, the yarn is Classic Elite, Mountain Top Chalet (6 balls).

Gauge is not crucial for this pattern.  But, I got a little under 4 stitches per inch in stockinette.  And, I’m sure another bulky yarn could be substituted.

2013-01-02 001C/O 49 st.  (3 multiples of 16 sts plus 1).  Work pattern one row shy of 14 times (139 rows).  Place stitches on holder.  Note: You can work the full 14 repeats but the join in the center will be more pronounced because of the extra stockinette rows created.  Leaving out the last row of purl across makes the join smaller. 

Repeat above directions to knit other side of scarf.  With wrong sides facing, use Kitchener stitch to graft the two side together.  Here’s a great Kitchener tutorial, if you need brushing up:  http://knitty.com/ISSUEsummer04/FEATtheresasum04.html

Bear Track Stitch Pattern:BearTrackChart

Row 1 (RS):  k1 *yo, (k1, p1) 7 times, k1, yo, k1 repeat from *

Row 2 (WS): k1 *p2, (k1, p1) 7 times, p1, k1 repeat from *

Row 3 (RS): k2 *yo, (k1, p1) 7 times, k1, yo, k3 repeat from * ending k2

Row 4 (WS): k2 *p2, (k1, p1) 7 times, p1, k3 repeat from * ending k2

Row 5 (RS): k3 *yo, (k1, p1) 7 times, k1, yo, k5 repeat from * ending K3

Row 6 (WS): k3 *p2, (k1, p1) 7 times, p1, k5 repeat from *ending k3

Row 7 (RS): k4 *yo, (k1, p1) 7 times, k1, yo, k7 repeat from * ending k42012-12-19 002 copy

Row 8 (WS): k4 *p2, (k1, p1) 7 times, p1, k7 repeat from * ending k4

Row 9 (RS):  k5 *(ssk) 3 times, sl 1-k2-tog-psso, (k2-tog) 3 times, k9 repeat from * ending k5

Row 10 (WS): purl entire row