Color Stranded AND Cabled

CrazySock3I’ve been wanting to play around with color stranded cables for a while now and socks are the perfect platform for experimentation- small, portable, and they knit up pretty quickly.

This yarn has been sitting in my stash cabinet since I finished my Jolly Rancher vest (which is a fair isle vest pattern by Eunny Jang and can be found free on ravelry!)  I’m very happy to be stash bustin’ along with playing around with new techniques.

CrazySock2There’s a stained-glass feel to the stitch pattern.  I’m thinking that if the cables were black and the background was a gradient yarn like Noro, the stained-glass effect would be even more pronounced.  Perhaps I might give it a try in the next pair.

For those that would like to recreate, I’ll be working up a chart in the next few days.CrazySock

Gorgeous Scoop-Necked Cabled Sweater – Olwen Sweater Pattern

olwen3pdfbutton
OlwenUpdated.pdf

It’s finished!!  And, I love it!  The yarn is soft and warm, the cables are classic and beautiful, and the darned thing fits the way it should!

I’ve given it a Welsh name -Olwen- just for the heck of it and I’ve graded it across 6 different sizes so hopefully something will work for you.  It’s my first graded sweater pattern.  Pretty exciting!  🙂

For those who would like to recreate this, click the pdf link above or here’s the spill:olwen

Skill Level- Intermediate

Finished Measurements (Chest) in inches– 32 (35, 38, 41, 44, 47) Shown in size 41 with no ease.

Yarn- Knit Picks City Tweed HW (or other worsted weight yarn)  890 ( 981, 1112, 1244, 1365, 1474) yds or 6 (6, 7, 8, 9, 9) balls.

Gauge- 3.8 stitches per inch in moss stitch with larger needle.  (size 8-10 US needle)

Directions:

BODY

Using smaller circular needle, CO 148 (160, 168, 176, 188, 196) sts.  Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Set Up Round:  [k1,p1] repeat 36 (39,  41, 43, 46, 48) more times, pm,  [k1,p1] repeat 36 (39,  41, 43, 46, 48) more times, place round marker.

Ribbing:  Continue in 1×1 ribbing by working sts as they appear for 13 rows.

Begin Pattern:  Switch to larger needle.  Work Chart A for 10 (13, 15, 17, 20, 22) sts, work Chart B for 54 sts, work Chart A for 10 (13, 15, 17, 20, 22) sts, sm, Work Chart A for 10 (13, 15, 17, 20, 22) sts, work Chart B for 54 sts, work Chart A for 10 (13, 15, 17, 20, 22) sts, smOlwenCharts.

Continue Pattern: Continue working pattern charts as established for 61 (63, 65, 65, 67, 67) more rows.

Set Up for Sleeve Join Round:  Work in established pattern until 2 (3, 3, 4, 5, 6) sts before round marker.  Slip next 4 (6, 6, 8, 10, 12) sts onto waste yarn.  Do not break yarn.

SLEEVE (Make Two)

Using smaller circular needle or DPNs, CO 32 (32, 34, 36, 38, 38) sts.  Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Set Up Round:  [k1, p1] repeat 15 (15, 16, 17, 18, 18) more times, place round marker

Ribbing:  Continue in 1×1 ribbing by working sts as they appear for 13 rows.

Pattern Set Up Round:  Switch to larger needle.  Work sts as they appear increasing 4 sts evenly around.  36 (36, 38, 40, 42, 42) sts.

Begin Pattern:  k1, work Chart A for 5 (5, 6, 7, 8, 8) sts, work Chart C for 24 sts, work Chart A for 5 (5, 6, 7, 8, 8) sts, k1, sm

Increase Round:  k1, m1, work pattern as established, m1, k1, sm

Continue working pattern as established while repeating the Increase Round every 4 rows 0 (0, 0, 1, 4, 10) times, then every 6 rows 0 (5, 9, 10, 8, 4) times, then every 8 rows 7 (4, 1, 0, 0, 0) times.  52 (56, 60, 64, 68, 72) sts.  Note: the new stitches made in the increase rounds should be worked in Moss Stitch (Chart A) in subsequent rows.

Work even until arm measures 17.25 (18, 18, 18.25, 18.25, 18.25) inches from cast on ending with an odd numbered row on Chart C.

Set Up for Join Round:  On next row (even numbered) from Chart C, work in pattern until 2 (3, 3, 4, 5, 6) sts before round marker.  Slip next 4 (6, 6, 8, 10, 12) sts onto waste yarn.  Break yarn leaving 18-inch tail to be used to graft underarm seam.  52 (56, 60, 64, 68, 72) sts.

YOKE olwen2

With working yarn from body of the sweater, pm for raglan, work sleeve sts in pattern, pm for raglan, work body sts in pattern until 2 (3, 3, 4, 5, 6) sts before side marker, slip next 4 (6, 6, 8, 10, 12) sts onto waste yarn, pm for raglan, work sleeve sts in pattern, pm for raglan, work in pattern across body until 2 stitches before raglan marker.  236 (244, 264, 276, 288, 296) sts.

Decrease Round:  SSK, sm, k2tog, work sleeve sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work body sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work sleeve sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work body sts in pattern to raglan marker.

Even Round:  work in pattern around to the last 2 sts.

Repeat these two rounds 9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11) more times.

Work one decrease round.

NECK SHAPING

Neck Bind Off:  work sts in pattern across sleeve, work sts in pattern across back, work sts in pattern across sleeve, work 15 (15, 18, 18, 20, 21) sts in pattern, bind off 16 (18, 18, 20, 20, 20) sts for neck, k1, SSK, work 10 (10, 13, 13, 15, 16) sts in pattern (2 sts before raglan marker). 123 (129, 149, 151, 163, 163) sts.

Decrease Round:  SSK, sm, k2tog, work sleeve sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work body sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work sleeve sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work body sts until 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1.  Turn work

Even Round (WS): Work sts as they appear all the way around.  Turn work.olwen4

Decrease Round (RS): k1, SSK, work in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work sleeve sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work body sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work sleeve sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work body sts until 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1.  Turn work.

Repeat these two rounds 3 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more times.  74 (90, 100, 102, 104, 104) sts.

TO THE SHOULDER

Even Round (WS): Work sts as they appear all the way around.  Turn work.

Decrease Round (RS): Work in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work sleeve sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work body sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work sleeve sts in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSK, sm, k2tog, work body sts in pattern.  Turn work.

Repeat these two rounds until 1 st remains on each side of front.  42 (42, 44, 46, 48, 48)sts.

Neck Ribbing:  Pick up an additional 46 (52, 56, 58, 62, 62) sts down around the front neck line.  Switch to smaller needles.  1×1 rib for 5 rows.  Bind off loosely.

Under Arm Seam:  Use Kitchener stitch and yarn tail from sleeve to graft seam closed.  Use tail to then close up any holes.

Weave in all ends.olwen5

Joining the Sleeves to the Sweater

cablejoinWith both sleeves reaching the underarm, all three pieces have been joined in the round.  Exciting!  This is actually my first time constructing a sweater from the bottom up in one piece.  It’s been a nice change from the top down and it makes so much more sense when knitting with cables.  It’s easier to see where the cables are going and figure out your decreases and when to stop the cables.  From the top down, you’ve got to really plan each stitch so you know when to start the cables.

A decision had to be made as to how many stitches to put on hold at the underarm.  I chose 8 stitches because I have a lot of stitches to reduce and I don’t want the arm hole to be really deep.  8 stitches should give me enough room in the arm hole without being too deep and sagging.  Hopefully, it will work out nicely.

underarmjoinHere’s what the underarm looks like.  It’s going to be grafted closed using the Kitchener Stitch after the top has been knitted.

The plan is for a scoop neck.  In about 8 more rows, I’m going to bind off the first neck stitches.  Keep your fingers crossed for me.  So far, so good.SnowyDay

My second ever attempt at sweater design was a pieced cabled cardigan for my daughter that we both love.  She picked out the yarn and the stitch patterns that she wanted and I did the rest.  We’ve entitled it “Snowy Day” and she wears it all the time.  The only thing I would do differently is the buttonholes.  I used the yarn over holes and they stretch out and look messy.  Anyone had that experience?  I’d love to know what your favorite buttonhole method is because I need a new one!

I’m hoping my new sweater will be just as successful as “Snowy Day” and will avoid the “Shelf of Shame” in my closet.  That’s the shelf where my failed sweaters go to live…

Cables Are Coming Along

CityTweedCable2The cable panel on the front of the sweater is shaping up to make for a really pretty pattern.  After reaching the underarm, I’ve had to start on a sleeve and decide what kind of pattern I’m going to put up the center.

This rope and hoop pattern fits on the smaller sleeve and I think it coordinates well-enough with the pattern on the body of the sweater.  Cables don’t have to be too matchy-matchy do they?

DetailsCityTweedCableSleeve on the sleeve so far:  Cast on 32 sts.  1×1 rib for a couple of inches.  Make 4 extra stitches evenly around on the set up row.  Then, center the cable panel on the sleeve and use moss stitch on all remaining stitches.  I’m increasing each side of the center underarm every 4th row and it appears to be just right.  Time will tell.

dogdamageIn other news, my dog chewed up one of my row counters.  I’m glad he didn’t get a hold of my yarn or sweater, but it still stinks!  I’m having to keep track of my chart placement with pencil and paper at the moment.

And, finally, here’s the chart for the sleeve cable.  This chart only took a few minutes to create now that I’ve figured out a method.  Okay, maybe 20 minutes, but still an improvement over yesterday.  🙂

SleeveCableChart

Cabled Charts and Tweed

CityTweedCable My KP City Tweed is shaping up into a cabled sweater.  As I go along, I’ll include information so you can knit one yourself, if you’d like.

Not a lot of knitting has occurred this morning because I’ve been trying to figure out the best way to create a knitting chart.  There are several software options if I’d like to pay for one but I’m trying to create one easily for free.

My solution was to download a knitting chart font and then use excel for the basics, save as a pdf so I can then open it in photoshop to finish it up.  Whew!  It was a bit of work.  But, here’s the result:

CableChartYou’ll have to click on it to see it in all its full-sized glory.  It’s a 54 stitch panel that is centered in the front and back of the sweater.  The remaining stitches are just knit in moss stitch.  And, the chart for that is here:MossChart

I feel very accomplished right now for getting that chart made up.  (Patting myself on the back.)  Now, I’ve just got to get all of my non-knitting duties (housework and the like) out of the way so I can get back to the job of knitting this sweater.  🙂

Cabled Stash Bustin’ Mittens

cabled mittenspdf StashBustinMittens

Cabled mittens are complete!  My daughter loves her new mittens so the project is a success.  However, I’m not crazy about this yarn as a mitten.  It has a shine and a drape instead of the usual fuzziness that lets you know a mitten is going to be toasty.

But, I did use up some of my leftover sweater yarn.  Also, I learned a bit more about cables and how to add and subtract extra stitches required for those beautiful things.  I’m planning on using my new pattern to knit up some mittens in a fuzzier yarn.

Directions:

For those who would like to replicate, I used a sport weight yarn and a size 3 needle.  I am a loose knitter so I always move to a smaller needle.  The gauge is 5.5 stitches per inch in stockinette.  It produced mittens for a girl or small woman’s hand  (3.4 inches across or 6.75 inches around).

Using circular needle, CO 32 st.  Move half of stitches onto another circular needle.  Join and 1×1 rib for a few inches or approximately 18 rows.

Set Up Round

first needle (thumb):  k2, m1, pm, k2, pm, k till last 2 st and m1, k2

second needle (cable): k2, m1, [k2, m1]2 times [k1, m1] 6 times, k2, m1, k2

Thumb Gusset

first needle (thumb): Knit across first needle, slipping markers when reached.

second needle (cable): k4, begin pattern across next 18 stitches, k4

first needle(thumb): k to marker, slip marker and m1, k to next marker, m1 and slip marker, k to end.cabledmittens2

second needle (cable): k4, knit pattern across next 18 st, k4

Repeat these 2 rounds until the gusset reaches the base of the thumb or the web of skin between thumb and forefinger, approximately 9 repeats of these 2 rounds.

first needle (thumb):  k to marker, remove marker and put all thumb sts on scrap yarn, CO 2 sts, remove marker, k to end of needle

second needle (cable): k4, k in patt across next 18 sts, k4

Hand

first needle: k across

second needle: k4, k in patt across next 18 sts, k4

Repeat this round until mitten covers pinkie, approximately 22 rounds.

Reducing and Closing Hand

first needle: k1, SSK, k until last 2 sts, k2tog, k1 (16 st)

second needle: k1, SSK,  k1, k in patt across next 18 sts, k1, k2tog, k1 (24 st)

first needle: k across

second needle: k3, k in patt across next 18 st, k3

first needle, k1, SSK, k until last 2 sts, k2tog, k1 (14 st)

second needle: k1, SSK, k in patt across next 18 st, k2tog, k1 (22 st)

first needle: k across

second needle: k2, k in patt across next 18 st, k2

first needle, k1, SSK, k until last 2 sts, k2tog, k1 (12 st)

second needle: k1, SSK, k in patt across next 16 st, k2tog, k1 (20 st)

first needle: k across

second needle: k2, k in patt across next 16 st, k2

first needle, k1, SSK, k until last 2 sts, k2tog, k1 (10 st)

second needle: k1, SSSK, k in patt across next 12 st, k3tog, k1 (16 st)

first needle: k across

second needle: k1, SSK,  k in patt across next 10 st, k2tog, k1 (14 st)

first needle, k1, SSK, k until last 2 sts, k2tog, k1 (8st)

second needle: k1, SSSK, k in patt across next 8 st, k3tog, k1 (12 st)

first needle: k across

second needle: k1, SSK,  k in patt across next 6 st, k2tog, k1 (10 st)

first needle, k1, SSK, k until last 2 sts, k2tog, k1 (6st)

second needle: k1, SSSK, k in patt across next 4 st, k3tog, k1 (6 st)

Use Kitchener’s Stitch to graft the two sides together.

Thumb

Move thumb stitches off holder and onto 2 circ needles.  Pick up the 2 CO sts and any extra sts needed to close gaps.  Just remember to reduce (using k2tog) on subsequent rounds the number of extra sts picked up.

K across all sts until thumb covers actual thumb, approximately 15 rounds.

k2tog all around for 2 rounds.  Cut yarn with 6 inch tail.  Use needle to thread tail through remaining sts.  Pull tight and weave in end.

Other Mitten

The next mitten is worked exactly like the first with the exception of the thumb placement.  The thumb set up will be on the opposite side so the set up round will be:

first needle (thumb):  k2, m1, k till last 4 st,pm, k2, pm, and m1, k2

Pattern

All odd rounds (1,3,5,7 &9): p2, k14, p2

round 2: p2, [k2, p1] 4 times, k2 p2

round 4: p2, k2, [p1, FC] 2 times, p2

round 6: p2, [k2, p1] 4 times, k2, p2

round 8: p2, [BC, p1] 2 times, k2, p2

round 10: p2, [k2, p1] 4 times, k2, p2

FC (Front Cross):  slip 3 sts to cable needle and hold in front, k2, then slip the left st on  cable needle back onto left needle and purl, then k2 from cable needle

BC (Back Cross): slip 3 st to cable needle and hold in back, k2, then slip the left st on cable needle back onto left needle and purl, then k2 from cable needle.