KaBloom Sock Pattern

pdfbuttonA colorful hand painted yarn combined with a flowery stitch creates a field of flowers down the front of these socks.  Construction is toe-up and on 2 circular needles.

If you’d like to make a pair for yourself, here’s the spill:

KaBloomSm3Skill Level– Beginner/Intermediate
Finished Measurements– 7.25” around, 9″ long (sole), and 12.5” toe to cuff.
Yarn– 300 yds of fingering weight yarn (shown here in Cloud 9 found in my Etsy shop.)
Gauge– 8 stitches per inch and 11 rpi in stockinette with US size 2 needle

DIRECTIONS
Toe
Using Judy’s Magic Cast On, cast on 28 stitches (14 per needle.)
Note: If you are unfamiliar with this cast on, you can find many helpful video tutorials on youtube.
Set Up Round: Knit across both needles.
Note: The cast-on loops on needle #2 are twisted.  On the first round only, knit them through the back of the loops to untwist them.  After this round, the stitches are worked normally.
Increase Round 1: On first needle (INSTEP), k1, m1R, knit across needle until 1 st remains, m1L, k1. On second needle (SOLE), k1, m1R, knit across needle until 1 st remains, m1L, k1.
Even Round: k all sts across both needles.
Repeat previous two rounds 6 more times. 56 sts (28 per needle)
Foot
Set Up Round: On first needle (INSTEP), k across until 1 st remains, M1L, k1. On second needle (SOLE), k all sts. 57 sts (29 on first needle, 28 on second needle.)
Pattern Round: On first needle (INSTEP), work Flower Stitch. On second needle (SOLE), k all sts.
Repeat Pattern Round a total of 38 times. Piece will measure about 4.75 inches from cast on.

KaBloomSm2Gusset
Increase Round: On first needle, work all sts in established pattern.  On second needle, k1, m1R, knit across needle
until 1 st remains, m1L, k1.
Even Round: On first needle, work all sts in established pattern. On second needle, k all sts.
Repeat these two rounds a total of 14 times. 85 sts (29 on first needle, 56 on second needle)

Heel Cup
Note: The heel cup will only be worked on the second needle.
Set Up: K across first needle (INSTEP), maintaining established pattern. On second needle (SOLE), k14, pm, k27, slip 1, bring yarn to right side to wrap stich, pm on left needle, slip st back to left needle. Turn work.
WS: Bring yarn to front of work, p to 1 st before marker, sl1, bring yarn to back of work to wrap st, slip st back to left needle.  Turn work.
RS: Bring yarn to back of work, k to 2 sts before previously wrapped st, slip 1, bring yarn to front of work, slip st back to left needle. Turn work.
WS: Bring yarn to front of work, p to 2 sts before previously wrapped st, slip 1, bring yarn to back of work, slip st back to left
needle. Turn work.
Repeat last two rows until only 4 sts remain between wrapped sts, ending having completed a RS row. Turn work.

KaBloomSm4Heel Flap
WS: purl across, lifting wraps and purling them together with their sts as you come to them until 1 st before marker. Sl1, remove marker, slip sts back to left needle and p2tog.  Turn work.
RS: Sl1, k across, lifting the wraps and knitting them together with their sts until 1 st before marker, sl1, remove marker, move st back to left needle, lift wrap and knit together with its st and the next st. Turn work.
WS: Sl1, p across until 1 st before gap, p2tog. Turn work.
RS: Sl1, [k1, sl1] repeating until 2 st before gap, k1, k2tog. Turn work.
Repeat these 2 rows until you have used up all of the gusset stitches and 28 stitches remain on the second needle.
You will now resume knitting in the round across both needles.

Leg
Note: To close any gaps between heel and instep, pick up a st in the gap where the instep sts meet the heel flap and knit together with the first st on the next needle.
Even Round: Work across first needle in established pattern.  K all sts on second needle.
Repeat Even Round a total of 40 times or until sock is about 1” less than desired height.

Cuff
Set Up Round: On first needle, *k2, p2 *repeat until 2 sts remain, p2tog. On second needle, *k2, p2 *repeat to end of needle.
Ribbing Round: *k2, p2 *repeat until end of round.
Repeat Ribbing Round 9 times total.
Bind off with preferred stretchy bind off method. Weave in ends.

KaBloomSm5Flower Stitch
Round 1: K all sts
Round 2: *Make Flower, k1 *repeat until 2 sts remain on needle, k2.
Round 3: K all sts
Round 4: K2, *Make Flower, K1 *repeat until end of needle, ending with Make Flower.
Make Flower: K3tog, leave sts on left needle, YO, K3tog into the same 3 sts, drop from left needle.

ABBREVIATIONS
k – knit
p – purl
sl1- Slip one stitch purlwise
p2tog- Purl 2 stitches together
k2tog- Knit 2 stitch together
k3tog – Knit 3 stitches together
YO – Yarn over
st(s) – Stitch(es)

Springtime Stitch Pattern – Star/Flower Stitch

starstitchI found this beautiful new-to-me stitch pattern on Pinterest called “Star Stitch” but it looks more like flowers to me.  It’s a perfect partner for this sunny hand painted yarn to create a field of flowers on my new sock so I can dream of spring while it is dismally cold and grey outside.

I’ll probably write up the pattern to share when I’m done with the socks because it takes a little bit of tweaking to modify for socks, especially the lower foot where you need an extra stitch for symmetry.  If you’re interested in the basic stitch pattern you can find it on theweeklystitch.com.  What is strange to me, is that this stitch isn’t in any of my stitch dictionaries.  Now, I don’t have a ton of them, but you’d think it would be in at least one of them.  And, another of my favorite stitch patterns, the bear track stitch, is also not included.  Thank goodness for the internet!  My favorite place for browsing stitch pattern is knittingfool.com.  What is your favorite stitch dictionary?  I’ve been eyeballing the Barbara Walker’s Treasury of Knitting Patterns set.  I wonder if the Star Stitch or Bear Track Stitch are included in her set?

dictionariesIn other news, I’ve been busy dyeing yarns for my Etsy shop.  Here’s a few of the new colorways available:

NewYarns

2 Colorful Socks and an Anticipated Cast On

skewtoo1The latest pair of Skew socks are off the needles!  And, I did manage to slow down and enjoy the process instead of rushing to get to my next project- the Bill Cipher sweater.  My sock model was sick in bed so I pulled out my sock blockers to take photos.  Unfortunately, the blockers are for medium feet and these socks are for an extra wide size 9.5 foot but at least the foot shape is apparent.  🙂

Finally producing a swatch for the new sweater was loads of fun because I got to try out a new technique- instead of a one stitch intarsia for the vertical stripes, I used a column of purl stitches and a crochet chain instead!  You can find more info on the technique here.

bill6You can see in the pic that the tension comes out nice and even.  And, it looks better (to me) than a duplicate stitch.  Plus, it’s waaaay more convenient and uses far less yarn than trying to color strand to produce the design.  Here’s a peek at the back of the swatch (below).  You can see that it’s fairly neat and tidy.  Overall, I’m thrilled to have found a way to pull off the brick design at the bottom of the sweater with minimal discomfort.

bill2In between my knitting, swatching and sweater designing, I discovered the most delightful beads to transform into stitch markers for my Etsy shop.  Who wouldn’t want to keep track of their stitches with alien heads or hula girls?!?  My current go-to stitch markers are turquoise skulls but I’m thinking about switching it up.  🙂

 

stitchmarkers3

A Free Sock Pattern Everyone Should Know About

skew4skew2There’s a particular sock pattern that is at the tippy-top of my “all-time favorite knitting patterns” list.  I became aware of this new approach to sock making after knitting dozens of socks with very traditional approaches.  Sock knitting was becoming stale and Skew was such a breath of fresh air.  It all begins with Judy’s Magic Cast On and only 12 stitches.  And, it’s free on knitty.com.  I’m pretty sure the designer, , is a genius.

The architecture of the sock is unlike any other that I’ve made.  It fits my foot perfectly and I love the look of the stitching up the side of the leg.  Wearing them makes me happy.  🙂

My latest pair is made with a self-striping sock yarn.  I think this pattern would also work beautifully with a hand-painted yarn, too.  I’m envisioning a black, grey and chartreuse colorway.  It’s fortunate that a box of bare sock yarn arrived on my doorstep today.  It’s also fortunate that it’s supposed to be warm and rain-less tomorrow, perfect for backyard dyeing!

skew5

Lovely Lounger Sock Pattern

LovelyLounger2pdfbutton
LovelyLounger.pdf

After several failed attempts to knit up a chunkier, stylish sock, I finally settled on these cushy, toasty feet warmers.  These lovely socks are perfect for lounging in front of a fire on a cozy, lazy day.  They knit up quickly in the DK weight yarn.  Toe up construction on 2 circular needles.

Skill Level- Beginner/Intermediate
Materials- 120 yds of DK weight yarn or 1 hank Knit Picks’
Swish DK yarn (as shown in photo).
Gauge- 6 stitches per inch and 7.5 rows per inch in
stockinette on size 5 (3.75 mm) circular needles.

Directions:
lovelylounger3TOE
Using Judy’s Magic Cast On, cast on 24 stitches (12 per needle.) Note: If you are unfamiliar with this cast on, you can find many helpful video tutorials on youtube.
Set Up Round: Knit across both needles. Note: The cast-on loops on needle #2 are twisted. On the first round only, knit them through the back of the loops to untwist them. After this round, the stitches are worked normally.
Increase Round 1: On first needle (INSTEP), k1, m1R, knit across needle until 1 st remains, m1L, k1. On second
needle (SOLE), k1, m1R, knit across needle until 1 st remains, m1L, k1.
Even Round: k all sts across both needles.
Repeat previous two rounds 5 more times. 48 sts (24 per needle)

FOOT
Begin Chart
Right foot only: On first needle (INSTEP), k2, work Chart A over next 7
stitches, knit to the end of needle. On second needle (SOLE), knit across all
stitches.
Left foot only: On first needle (INSTEP), k15, work Chart B over next
7 stitches, k2. On second needle (SOLE), knit across all stitches.
Repeat the previous round 19 more times. Piece will measure about 4.25 inches from cast on.

Lovelylounger4GUSSET
Increase Round 1: On first needle, work all sts in established pattern. On second needle, k1, m1R, knit across needle
until 1 st remains, m1L, k1.
Even Round: k all sts in established pattern.
Repeat these two rounds 11 more times. 72 sts (24 on first needle, 48 on second needle)

HEEL CUP
Note: The heel cup will be worked on the second needle only.
Set Up: K across first needle (INSTEP), maintaining established pattern. On second needle (SOLE), k12, pm, k23, slip 1, bring yarn to right side to wrap stich, pm on left needle, slip st back to left needle. Turn work.
WS: Bring yarn to front of work, p to 1 st before marker, slip 1, bring yarn to back of work to wrap st, slip st back to left needle. Turn work.
RS: Bring yarn to back of work, k to 2 sts before previously wrapped st, slip 1, bring yarn to front of work, slip st back to left needle. Turn work.
WS: Bring yarn to front of work, p to 2 sts before previously wrapped st, slip 1, bring yarn to back of work, slip st back to left needle. Turn work.
Repeat last two rows until only 4 sts remain between wrapped sts, ending having completed a RS row. Turn work.

LovelyLoungerHEEL FLAP
WS: purl across, lifting wraps and purling them together with their sts as you come to them until 1 st before marker. Slip 1, remove marker, slip sts back to left needle and p2tog. Turn work.
RS: slip 1, k across, lifting the wraps and knitting them together with their sts until 1 st before marker, slip 1, remove marker, move st back to left needle, lift wrap and knit together with its st and the next st. Turn work.
WS: slip 1, p across until 1 st before gap, p2tog. Turn work.
RS: slip 1, [k1, slip1] repeating until 2 st before gap, k1, k2tog. Turn work.
Repeat these 2 rows until you have used up all of the gusset stitches and 24 stitches remain on the second needle.
You will now resume knitting in the round across both needles.

LEG
Note: To close any gaps between heel and instep, pick up a st in the gap where the instep sts meet the heel flap and knit together with the first st on the next needle.
Even Round: k across first needle and second needle in established pattern.
Work sts in established pattern across both needles until sock is approximately 3.25 inches (or as tall as desired), ending having completed a round with row 7 of the chart (for symmetry).

CUFF
Ribbing
Right Foot: [k1, p1] around both needles.
Left Foot: [p1, k1] round both needles.

Repeat ribbing round at least 5 more times, or until cuff is desired length.
Bind off with preferred stretchy bind off method.

Book1ABBREVIABook1TIONS
pm – place marker
sm – slip marker
rm – remove marker
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 stitches together
p2tog – purl 2 stitches together
st(s) – stitch(es)
m1R– make one right leaning stitch
m1L – make one left leaning stitch
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
YO – yarn over
1/1/1 RCO (right cross over) – slip next 2 stitches to cable needle and hold in front, k1, slip center stitch from cable needle to left needle and knit it, then knit remaining stitch from cable needle.
1/1/1 LCO (left cross over)– slip next 2 stitches to cable needle and hold behind, k1, slip center stitch from cable needle to left needle and knit it, then knit remaining stitch from cable needle.

Sock Surgery

socksurgery1My new sock is too short in the foot.  This is the third time I’ve tried to knit up a sock and I’ll be damned if I’m going to frog yet another sock!  The first sock was too busy for the cable.  The second sock was too tight.  This sock was knit up too short because I used the width of the foot instead of the length to get my total rows.  You can see from the picture that the heel is sliding under my foot.

I’m opting for sock surgery instead of frogging.  I’ve heard about this method but haven’t tried it myself.  If the sock is destroyed, the yarn can be salvaged for another project.  Right?!?

First things first, I need to cut my yarn.  I’m selecting a spot above the toe increases and below the gusset increases.

socksurgery2Then I’m unraveling my cut yarn to expose stitches both above and below and will pick these stitches up on smaller needles.

socksurgery3Once the stitches are all picked up, the toe is completely separate from the rest of the sock.

socksurgery4And since this sock was knit toe up, I’m grabbing a fresh yarn and beginning to knit in pattern for the full inch that was needed to lengthen the sock on the now removed toe of the sock.  It’s fortunate that one pattern repeat in the lacy cable is one inch so there shouldn’t be any disruption in the pattern.

socksurgery5Next is grafting.  I used Kitchener stitch.  The tricky part are those purls in the pattern.  I discovered that if you reverse the Kitchener stitch, it creates a purl.  So, instead of knit off and purl through, you can purl off and knit through to get the purl stitch.  The sock actually looks like it was never cut in two!  Yay!

socksurgery6This is my first time cutting into the middle of my knitting and I hope to never have to do it again.  But, it’s nice to know that this method actually works!  🙂  And, my sock fits!!!socksurgery7I think it even saved me some time.  It took about 2 hours to complete the surgery.  I’m pretty sure it took more than double that time to knit up to the cuff.

socksurgery8And, if you read my previous post, you’ll see that I’ve modified my sock design again.  I’ve downsized the cable for a more delicate look.  I think I’m finally happy with this thing.  It’s only taken 3 tries and a surgery, but it’s a keeper.  Now, to cast on for the second sock.

Sock Design Failure

stashsockfail1Since I have many balls of superwash worsted-weight yarn in my stash, I’m trying to figure out clever yet practical ways to use this stuff.  My most recent design plan was for worsted-weight socks with a minimal design feature to break up the plain stockinette stitch.  A swatch was made, measurements obtained, and a pretty lace cable pattern was found.  So, it was time to knit these things!

It didn’t take long to realize that the busy yarn was obscuring the lacy cable.  Instead of finding a different stitch pattern, I decided to go with a more subtle yarn.  What I didn’t notice was that the new yarn selection was a DK weight and not a worsted weight.  They looked and felt pretty much the same… but they definitely knit up at different gauges!sockfail2

I like the lacy cable better in the new yarn but it’s just too snug now.  It’s hard to see in the photo but the whole thing is stretched out to the max and pulling down a bit on my big toe.  The only person with small feet in my house has declared that they hate pink so I frogged this sock too.

After 2 failed attempts, hopefully, the third time will be the charm.  Maybe I’ll just rerun the numbers for the DK yarn.  Or, maybe I’ll just move on to a new project.  🙂

Below is the chart I made up for the cable and lace panel.  This stitch pattern might look good in a summer cardigan one of these days…Book1

Moustached Cat- Sock Pattern

moustachedpdfbutton
MoustachedCat.pdf

Second Sock Syndrome nearly killed these socks but somehow, I was able to overcome the affliction and get them done.  It was a lot of fun to watch the cats appear on the needles as I worked the chart.  There are some long stretches of color on the cats that I couldn’t break up without ruining the overall picture, but keeping the floats loose kept the socks stretchy enough to get into.

For those who would like to reproduce, there’s a link to the PDF above or here’s the spill:

Skill Level- Intermediate

Materials- 440 yds of fingering weight yarn or 2 hanks Knit Picks’ Stroll Tonal Sock yarn (as shown in photo).

Gauge- 8 stitches per inch and 8.5 rows per inch in color-stranded stockinette on size 1 (2.25 mm) circular needles.

Directions:

Note:  Remember to keep your floats loose in the back of your work in order to keep the socks stretchy enough to get your foot into them! 

TOE
Using Judy’s Magic Cast On, cast on 30 stitches (15 per needle.)  Note:  The cast-on loops on needle #2 are twisted.  On the first round only, knit them through the back of the loops to untwist them.  After this round, the stitches are worked normally.

Set Up Round:  On first needle [k1 in CC, k1 in MC] repeat across entire needle ending with k1 in CC.  On second needle [k1 in MC, k1 in CC] repeat across entire needle ending with k1 in MC

Increase Round 1:  On first needle, k1 in CC, m1R in CC, [k1 in MC, k1 in CC] repeat across needle until 1 st remains, m1L in CC, k1 in CC.  On second needle, k1 in MC, m1R in MC, [k1 in CC, k1 in MC] repeat across needle until 1 st remains, m1L in MC, k1 in MC.

Even Round:  k all sts in the color they already are to maintain striping across both needles.

Increase Round 2:  On first needle, k1 in CC, m1R in MC, [k1 in CC, k1 in MC] repeat across needle until 1 st remains, M1L in MC, k1 in CC.  On second needle, k1 in CC, m1R in CC, [k1 in MC, k1 in CC] repeat across needle until 1 st remains, m1L in CC, k1 in CC.

Even Round:  k all sts in color they already are to maintain striping across both needles.

Repeat previous four rounds 3 more times.  62 sts (31 per needle)

FOOT
Maintain StripesOn first needle (INSTEP), [k1 in CC, k1 in MC] across needle, ending with k1 in CC.  On second needle (SOLE), [k1 in MC, k1 in CC] across needle, ending with k1 in MC.

Repeat this round until piece measures 3.25 inches, ending having worked across second needle and ready to work across first needle.

GUSSET
Increase Round 1:  On first needle, work all sts in established pattern.  On second needle, k1 in MC, m1R in MC, [k1 in CC, k1 in MC] across needle until 1 st remains, m1L in MC, k1 in MC.

Even Round: k all sts in color they already are to maintain striping across both needles.

Increase Round 2:  On first needle, work all sts in established pattern.  On second needle, k1 in MC, m1R in CC, [k1 in MC, k1 in CC] across needle until 1 sts remains, m1L in CC, k1 in MC.

Even Round:  k all sts in color they already are to maintain striping across both needles.

Repeat these four rounds 6 more times and then first two rounds once more.  92 sts (31 on first needle, 61 on second needle)

HEEL CUP
The heel cup will only be worked on the second needle and with only the MC yarn.

Set Up:  K across first needle (INSTEP), maintaining established pattern.  Drop the CC yarn.  On second needle (SOLE) and with MC yarn, k15, pm, k30, slip 1, bring yarn to right side to wrap stich, pm on left needle, slip st back to left needle.  Turn work.

WS:  Bring yarn to front of work, p to 2 sts before marker, slip 1, bring yarn to back of work to wrap st, slip st back to left needle.  Turn work.

RS:   Bring yarn to back of work, k to 2 sts before previously wrapped st, slip 1, bring yarn to front of work, slip st back to left needle.  Turn work.

WS:  Bring yarn to front of work, p to 2 sts before previously wrapped st, slip 1, bring yarn to back of work, slip st back to left needle.  Turn work.

Repeat last two rows until only 4 sts remain between wrapped sts, ending having completed a WS row.  Turn work.

RS:  K3, slip1, bring yarn to front of work, slip st back to left needle.  Turn work.

WS:  purl across, lifting wraps and purling them together with their sts as you come to them until 1 st before marker.  Slip 1, rm, slip sts back to left needle and p2tog.  Turn work.

RS: slip 1, k across, lifting the wraps and knitting them together with their sts until 1 st before marker, slip 1, rm, move st back to left needle, lift wrap and knit together with its st and the next st.  Turn work.

HEEL FLAP
WS:  slip 1, p across until 1 st before gap, p2tog.  Turn work.

RS:  slip 1, [k1, slip1] repeating until 2 st before gap, k1, k2tog.  Turn work.

Repeat these 2 rows until only 1 st remains on either side of the gap, ending having worked a RS row.

WS:  slip 1, p across until 1 st before gap, p2tog.  Turn work.

Resume Pattern Striping (RS):  slip 1, [k1 in MC, k1 in CC] repeating until 1 st before gap, k2tog with MC.  62 sts (31 per needle)

LEGMoustacheChart
Note:  To close any gaps between heel and instep, pick up a st in the gap where the instep sts meet the heel flap and knit together with the first st on the next needle in pattern color.

Even Round:  k across first needle and second needle in established pattern.

Repeat this round 2 more times.

Work Chart:  On first needle, begin working the Moustache Cat chart.  On second needle, continue working in established pattern.

Continuing working chart until all 54 rows of the chart have been knitted.

Even Round:  Work sts in established striped pattern across both needles until sock is as tall as desired, at least 2 more rounds.

CUFF
Break CC yarn, leaving 6 inch tail.  Work cuff with MC.

moustached2Ribbing: On first needle, [k1, p1] across ending with k1.  On second needle [p1, k1] across ending with p1.

Repeat ribbing round at least 4 more times, or until cuff is desired length.

Bind off.

Cat Heel Redo

HipCat1If I had waited a few hours longer, I wouldn’t have had to rip back the heel and could have salvaged my striped heel.  marcaritaville gave a great suggestion about just turning the sock inside out and closing the holes with some extra stitching.  But, I didn’t wait and I ripped and reknitted in one color.  Oh well, at least there aren’t any holes now.

HipCat12I think the cat motif helps break up the banana feel that I was hating so much and it’s back to looking more retro and less overripe fruit.  Now, I just need to finish up the second sock.  Second sock syndrome is a real issue for knitters!  I’m daydreaming about my next project when I’ve got many hours left to go on the second sock.   🙂

HipCaCharttThe cat is a hit with my kids.  Even my husband says he’ll wear these guys out in public but we are admittedly a strange bunch.

Here’s a chart for those who would like a hipster cat of their own on a knitted item.

 

Hipster Cat Trouble

HipCatMy daughter loved the idea of these socks and the hipster cat that I plan on placing on the front leg.  But, as always with experimentations in knitting, there’s a hitch.  🙂

I thought the pinstripe effect would be neat surrounding the cat cameo and tried to carry the effect up the heel of the sock.  However, I’m getting holes all along the pick up line and I’m not sure how to overcome this problem.  As I was turning the heel, I began to think that I probably should have knitted the toe and heel in one color.HipCat2  Now, I’m sure I should have at least knitted the heel in one color.

So, I’m taking a deep breath and putting these aside for a little while.  These still might end up ripped out and forgotten but I’m going to see if there might be an easy solution to the holes problem.  But on the other hand, I’m not loving this color combo… which means I’m not really enjoying knitting this sock.  Initially, the colors seemed retro to me with the brown and harvest gold.  But, now, they just remind me of an over-ripe banana.  😦